DIYAPASON-L Digest #82 - Thursday, April 27, 2000
 
Wurlitzer Valves
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Wurlitzer Valves
  by "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net>
 

(back) Subject: Wurlitzer Valves From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 10:28:59 -0500   Dear list members,   It's that time again to go to the well for info, or at least hope to get a concensus of opinions. As always, I thank all the resident talent in advance for all efforts and thoughts that go into the replies. Much appreciated!   I have gotten various opinions on the rebuild of Wurlitzer spool valves. We're redoing a 7 rank chest, and we'd like to do it right the first time.   The originals consist of the brass threaded rod mounted on which - in = order from the non-threaded end - there is a leather nut, free-spinning valve disk, felt washer, leather nut, leather nut, felt washer, same disk, and leather nut.   We found the space between disk faces to be nominally 11/16", and the = first nut sitting in the first thread. We also found that not all rods were exactly the same length; varying by as much as a 1/4"! Also that the location of the threads on the rods was inconsistent.   To completely redo theses valves we were told that it was better to use = new disks that are threaded on ratherthan loose-spinning. however these are thicker! Also if we add the nuts it leaves no wobble to help seat the valve. Is that really better?   Is the 11/16" a good dimension to hold?   What should the initial space between the top of the primary pneumatic and the valve disk face be ?   Where - in your esteemed opnions - should we purchase the proper parts? = P/N?   Should we try and redo the valves the old way? nuts, felts, etc.   Any other helpful opinions and comments would be greatly appreciated.   Regards,   John V      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Wurlitzer Valves From: "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 22:47:13 -0500   Hey John-   Having done some Wurlis, I'd stick to the nut, felt washer, floating disc route- like the origional.   Keep the outboard leather nut on the first thread and work up from there. Make sure the primaries are all the same span to accomodate the shorter threaded wires.   Bear in mind- even tho the bottom boards were gang-drilled, not all the bores may be the same depth- thus the valve travel in each bore may differ somewhat.   I ues a thickness guage- 0.175 gap to measure the travel between the = bottom valve and inside of the valve cover on the bottom board for each note. = This should give you a uniform travel in all notes.   Arndt and Organ Supply sell Wurli valve replacements. Preferably go with = the free-floating, self-seating type.   Happy going nuts!   Rick