DIYAPASON-L Digest #42 - Tuesday, February 22, 2000
 
Console Wind Supply Question
  by "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net>
Drawknob Console available
  by "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net>
RE: [Residence Organs]  organ for sale in Baltimore
  by "Blackwell, Mike (WTC/Lisle)" <mblackwell@wallace.com>
I need some suggestions, please and thank you!
  by "Elders, Craig" <c.elders@tcu.edu>
How to replace raised tilting tablets?
  by "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net>
Need 12" windsleeve and advice on baffle's.
  by "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu>
Need for driver circuit
  by <DEMPAR1@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Need for driver circuit
  by "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Need 12" windsleeve and advice on baffle's.
  by "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Residence Organs]  Need 12" windsleeve  (OOPS!)
  by "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  How to replace raised tilting tablets?
  by "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Re: [Residence Organs] 12" windsleeve
  by <GRSCoLVR@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  How to replace raised tilting tablets?
  by "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net>
Melodias and other Flutitudes
  by "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com>
 

(back) Subject: Console Wind Supply Question From: "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:40:02 -0500   The console which I will be using for my residence instrument is a 1978 vintage Schantz rocker tab type with mechanical tripper combination = action. The couplers and pedal switching are also pneumatic. The current flange diameter on the "blowbox" (or whatever it is called) is 3". That is = mighty bulky and ugly, since in my case it will have to exit toward the CEILING (the music room is on slab).   I have some inquiries out on console blowers and regulators, but must = assume for now that the air supply will be up to 50 feet away.   Is it advisable to used smaller diameter tubing for the air supply? Even = 2" PAP flex is less bulky. What about even smaller diameters? I would = likely have a console regulator near the console if needed, and in any case the most of the length would be at static pressure.   Regards, Dave McClellan      
(back) Subject: Drawknob Console available From: "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:57:13 -0500   I will be disposing of a Hook and Hastings 2 manual drawknob console. It was built in 1929, and originally controlled a 5-rank mortuary organ. = There is a picture and specifications on my web site at http://mcclellans.com/hh2575hist.htm I can provide additional pictures.   It is original condition and very dirty. The case material is oak. The pneumatics are toast. The blowbox for the pneumatics is missing. The coupler stack (pneumatic) is still present, but the condition is unknown. Pedalboard, bench, and rolltop are all intact. The music rack is present, but does not appear to be original (correct wood finish and type). The keyboard naturals, drawknobs, and coupler tabs are ivory. The sharps = appear to be hardwood (not ebony). One of the naturals has a damaged top and = will need a new keytop. Contacts are in very good shape, since usage was probably light compared to a church organ. The combination action is setterboard (pull out shelves on either side).   There is room on the jambs to add more drawknobs if converted to electric action.   Since the entire console can be dissassembled with screws, it will go through a standard door, which is rare.   I would like $150, but would accept offers. Pickup only, Atlanta, = Georgia.   Dave McClellan      
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] organ for sale in Baltimore From: "Blackwell, Mike (WTC/Lisle)" <mblackwell@wallace.com> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:05:22 -0600   interested in a single phase 220 V blower of that size? I know of one = that might still be available in Michigan if you could pick it up on short notice. Last I heard it was headed for the trash.   > -----Original Message----- > From: Kelvin Smith [mailto:KelvinSmith@untraveledroad.com] > Sent: Monday, 21 February, 2000 20:08 > To: DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Subject: [Residence Organs] organ for sale in Baltimore > > > There is an organ for sale in Baltimore which appears to be 25 or more > ranks. The seller is ready to sell at prices us home organ > nuts can afford > and you all ought to take a look at it. I made an offer on it, but the > blower is three phase, so I had to back out. > > (I am still looking for a single phase blower 2hp or more.) > > Note that the unifications in the specification are just guesses. The > seller is working on getting an accurate spec. > > http://www.centeronchildren.com/organ/ > > Kelvin Smith > > > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > >  
(back) Subject: I need some suggestions, please and thank you! From: "Elders, Craig" <c.elders@tcu.edu> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:20:11 -0600   Good day to all!   Well, it is time for me to get off the bench and get back to "finishing" Eleanor, my home pipe organ. I am having voicing done on my principals = and will continue with the rest of the organ when ever my voicer has the time = to help. What I need now is to determine and find the right flute for my Great. This rank is the only one that I have left until "later", and it = is now later. I have planned and saved space for the rank, the rank drivers are wired and in place, the drawknobs ready, all I need is to find the pipework and build the chest(s). I thought I would ask you what you would use for Eleanor's Great flute.   Let me give you what I have always planned and thought about and see if = you would have another suggestion. As always, because of space, this can be = the only flute on the Great. I have Swell flutes borrowed as I have extra drawknobs on the Great. I will play the Great flute at 8,4, and 2. Of course not all at once as a chorus, but available to combine/use at different pitches. This will be a "solo" flute, an open flute. A Melodia is what I have planned, an open flute with a contrast of a stopped Gedeckt in the Swell. Some of the prettiest sounding flutes I have heard have been some Melodia's that have been "redone" in rebuilds around town. Also, a beautiful "looking" wood rank along with all the bright shiny metal pipes would just add to the Eleanor's overall appearance. (Not that she needs = any work as she is already a beautiful lady!)   Since I want a 2' flute also, I will have to extend the rank upward. What = I have seen in organs is that a rank will play at 8 and 2. Several cases = have had a Rohrflute at 16 and/or 8 and 2'. The actual pipework changes for the top 3 or so octaves to something like a Spillflute. So most of the 2' is = a different "type" of pipework. But then, these lower pipes were stopped or partially stopped like the Rohrflute or Chimney Flute. Sitting at the console, it is hard to hear where the rank changes, I am sure a great = deal of work went into this by the builder to accomplish such a smooth transition. Is this configuration possible with an open flute like a Melodia? What type of pipework could/would you use for the top extension? Where would you "break" to the other rank? Or would you use something = other than a Melodia/Clarabella? Or would you go another route, completely?   Thanks for your thoughts and any suggestions. And, there is a prize. The winner will get a personal invitation to come to Fort Worth to help gather/find pipework, build chests, do wiring, install and regulate the = new stop! WOW!   Have a great rest of the week!   Craig and Eleanor  
(back) Subject: How to replace raised tilting tablets? From: "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:27:31 -0500   My Schantz console uses tilting stop tablets and has a mechanical capture (tripper) combination action. The tablets are the type of tilting tablet with having a raised ridge on the top and bottom of each. These are available from OSI and Arndt and other sources, engraved. But how are = they supposed to be removed from the console? I hesitate to force anything. There are two screws on the back as well as a toggle spring. Removing the spring and screws does not release the tab. It appears to be firmly attached to a hinged lever that is connected to the stop tab crank through = a threaded wire and leather nut.   It appears to me that the name board would have to be removed and = completely disassembled in order to replace or move the tabs around (yuck!). Has anyone done this before?   Dave    
(back) Subject: Need 12" windsleeve and advice on baffle's. From: "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 13:03:16 -0500   Hello all,   Unfortunately I don't have any advice to give either Craig or Dave, but I really like the sound of a Rohrflute. As I've never heard a Melodia I = can't comment on that. From what I've heard, some really like it and others don't. I'll have to admit though Craig has me curious. I have one = available to me so maybe I'll get it and experiment with it (fill in the nicks, = etc.) and see how it sounds. Now to find room for another rank, hmm maybe above the couch, Ouch! Sorry dear!   I have two questions of my own though.   1. Does anyone have a 12" windsleeve lying around they don't need and = would sell? I need one to connect the outlet of my Spencer to the butterfly = valve under the static reservoir. The length is not critical. A new one is quite expensive.   2. In the past I heard some advice about placing a baffle at one or both ends of my windline from the Spencer to the Chamber. I've heard they can = be either inside the reservoir or external. Anyone have any idea on how to build such a beast? I envision something with partitions maybe covered = with something like carpet or other that won't deteriorate over time.   Thanks,   Eric        
(back) Subject: Need for driver circuit From: <DEMPAR1@aol.com> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 13:04:36 EST   Would anyone out there happen to have a diagram for a simple driver = circuit that will allow me to operate an electric action xylophone from a solid = state organ relay designed to handle the current drain normally imposed by 150 = ohm chest magnets. I am also open to any commercially made device to do the = same thing as long as the cost is reasonable. My xylophone is 49 note and the electromagnetic operators operate on 12 v.dc at a current draw of 1.6 amps = on the outstroke.  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Need for driver circuit From: "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:04:32 -0600   DEMPAR1@aol.com wrote: > Would anyone out there happen to have a diagram for a simple driver = circuit > that will allow me to operate an electric action xylophone from a solid = state > organ relay designed to handle the current drain normally imposed by 150 = ohm > chest magnets. I am also open to any commercially made device to do the = same > thing as long as the cost is reasonable. My xylophone is 49 note and the > electromagnetic operators operate on 12 v.dc at a current draw of 1.6 = amps on > the outstroke.   Peterson Electro-Musical Products offers heavy-duty driver cards in 12-note increments that would handle the load you're talking about imposing.   I don't have catalog information at hand.   Also, Syndyne has driver cards for 49 notes that normally handle 40 Ohms for $235.00, and ones that handle 20 Ohms for $280.00   The catalog numbers for these are LS2449K and LS23449K-ALL, respectively.   Hope this helps!   Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Need 12" windsleeve and advice on baffle's. From: "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:09:47 -0600   Eric Sagmuller wrote: > Hello all,   <snippage>   > I have two questions of my own though. > 1. Does anyone have a 12" windsleeve lying around they don't need and = would > sell? I need one to connect the outlet of my Spencer to the butterfly = valve > under the static reservoir. The length is not critical. A new one is = quite > expensive.     > 2. In the past I heard some advice about placing a baffle at one or both > ends of my windline from the Spencer to the Chamber. I've heard they can = be > either inside the reservoir or external. Anyone have any idea on how to > build such a beast? I envision something with partitions maybe covered = with > something like carpet or other that won't deteriorate over time.   It's best to have the baffle on the INLET of the blower if you're trying to quiet things down, as turbulence get a bit strange, in terms of wind-flow, if you put one into the pressurized wind system. If you do a careful job and make sure to remove any sharp points which can set up wind "eddies" from the wind going around sharp corners, or jagged edges, etc., I think that since you're going into a Reservoir in the organ, things should be pretty quiet. If it's not, then look for the aforementioned abrupt changes in wind direction and correct them first. Use very long radius elbows when making changes in direction. If you still need to try to "shut up" the organ's wind lines, I suggest a layer of EXTERIOR ductwork insulation that's used for air-conditioned ducts in non-conditioned spaces. Its' relatively inexpensive, and does wonders to quiet wind line noise.   Best of luck!   Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL  
(back) Subject: Residence Organs] Need 12" windsleeve (OOPS!) From: "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:16:08 -0600   Eric Sagmuller wrote:   > Hello all, > 1. Does anyone have a 12" windsleeve lying around they don't need and = would > sell? I need one to connect the outlet of my Spencer to the butterfly = valve > under the static reservoir. The length is not critical. A new one is = quite > expensive.   And I forgot to answer that question!   I meant to include a blurb that I didn't have any 12" canvas wind socks (I order those as I need them, because, as you say: they're expensive!), but I prolly have some 12" Flexhaust or some such lying around that may do the trick for you.   Want me to look?   Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] How to replace raised tilting tablets? From: "Richard Schneider, President" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:21:56 -0600   Dave McClellan wrote: > My Schantz console uses tilting stop tablets and has a mechanical = capture > (tripper) combination action. The tablets are the type of tilting = tablet > with having a raised ridge on the top and bottom of each. These are > available from OSI and Arndt and other sources, engraved. But how are = they > supposed to be removed from the console? I hesitate to force anything. > There are two screws on the back as well as a toggle spring. Removing = the > spring and screws does not release the tab. It appears to be firmly > attached to a hinged lever that is connected to the stop tab crank = through a > threaded wire and leather nut.   More than likely, these tablets are glued in place and were not intended to be removed. Likely, you'll have to disassemble the Nameboard and carefully chisel the mis-engraved tablets off the rockers. In short: a LOT of work.   Truth be told, it's almost as much work to re-build one of these as it is to replace it with a new assembly. Of course, if you have more time than money, you can work with this, but be prepared to spend a lot of time getting back to "ground Zero" to where you can attach newly engraved tablets. > It appears to me that the name board would have to be removed and = completely > disassembled in order to replace or move the tabs around (yuck!). Has > anyone done this before?   Yup. And it ain't fun! Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] 12" windsleeve From: <GRSCoLVR@aol.com> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 19:09:12 EST   Eric and listers---- Over the past few years I have not been ordering the expensive windsleeves,,but rather manufacturing them. I use .030 thick reed organ bellows pneumatic cloth, and glue it with automotive trim adhesive. For = over 10 inches I take the sock to the local shoemaker and have him stitch it up = in addition. Under 10 inches I dont bother,,and none have ever blown out. I would estimate that the difference in cost is about 1/4 the cost of a = ready made purchased one. Just a thawt, works for me. Regards, ---Roc  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] How to replace raised tilting tablets? From: "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 20:28:05 -0600   At 2/22/00 11:27 AM, Dave wrote: >My Schantz console uses tilting stop tablets and has a mechanical capture >(tripper) combination action. <snip> >But how are they supposed to be removed from the console? I hesitate to >force anything. <snip, again>   Hi, Dave!   Your tabs are probably glued directly to a wooden pivot block which actually actuates the mechanism. Though it sounds severe, they can often be removed by grasping the top or bottom of the tab and firmly "snapping = it off" (that is, breaking the glue joint between the plastic tab and the wooden block behind it). If your tabs are original from the Schantz factory, it is likely that they were attached with an adhesive (similar to Duco Cement) such that this is possible...if they have been "repaired or rearranged" with other glue, in the meantime, you might not have any luck. If you can get the edge of a chisel or knife in there to help break the glue joint, it will help immeasurably (at a corner of the block where it meets the back of the tab).   Believe it or not, sometimes you DO have to force things (a little, and in the correct way!!) Good luck!!   Tim   PS -- make sure to reattach them with something OTHER than = "super-glue"...a little Duco cement or silicone will hold them firmly. Use masking tape to hold them secure while it cures.  
(back) Subject: Melodias and other Flutitudes From: "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:28:38 -0500   Craig Elders asked for some suggestions for his Great Flute. Here are = some.   1. Melodias come in many sizes and shapes. Some are light and clear, some are heavy and dense, some run all the way up to the top of the 8' range in open wood pipes, some have open metal top octaves. Some "Clarabellas" are actually Melodias; that is, they have inverted upper lips (tapered on the inside). Scaling and pressure are also variables, as is the original use of the rank (Great vs Choir, for example). Estey ranks can be quite attractive with their nicely made caps and roller beards, but their built-in slide tuners have a habit of being too loose or too tight (and rarely "just right). If you find a "bad" one, try another!   2. Some folks have had success filling in some of the nicks on a Melodia. As an experiment, try something easily removable, and don't do them all at once! Other folks have even applied new upper lips of spotted metal, = glued on over the existing lips and then bent and trimmed for the desired = effect. (Tricky)   3. If all of the Melodia, etc., ranks are too big, try an open wood Harmonic Flute. Close its harmonic holes and perhaps adjust the cap a little -- you might get a wonderfully warm "Holzprinzipal" effect (but = that might not be what you want!). I've seen them with tapered metal harmonic top octave pipes (top of 4' range), yet another variable.   4. The real fun would be to build your own, perhaps using some exotic wood native to the area. (Mesquite Melodia?!?)   Good luck, Craig, and please let us know how it's going!   Larry Chace