DIYAPASON-L Digest #48 - Tuesday, February 29, 2000
 
VERY IMPORTANT - VIRUS WARNING
  by "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com>
Re: [Residence Organs] Mixture Chest
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Re: [Residence Organs] Mixture Chest
  by <Pipewheezr@aol.com>
Mixture Chest
  by "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com>
stop keys
  by "Gary Black" <gblack@ocslink.com>
 

(back) Subject: VERY IMPORTANT - VIRUS WARNING From: "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com> Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 04:05:02 -0600   Folks   As you all know, we do not allow anyone to pass along Virus Warnings on this list except for the Administrators. And since I received a copy of a Virus from someone who is on one of the Organ Mailing lists I feel that I do need to warn everyone on this list about this problem.   There is something called PrettyPark.exe that is floating around. DO NOT run this file. If you have please go to: http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/prettypark.worm.html to see how to eradicate it.   As part of Safe Computing, you should never run any file that you receive unless you know EXACTLY what it is and who it is from. If you receive a file out of the blue from someone you know, always check with them to see what they have sent you PRIOR to running the file.   David ********************************************************* DIYAPASON-L - a mailing list for the owners/builders of their own home pipe organ  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Mixture Chest From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:10:49 -0500   >At 04:44 PM 2/28/00 CST, Bart wrote: >>What's going on and can I fix it without taking all 183 pipes out and = taking >>the chest apart?   Your problem reminds me of the "unexpected" that sometimes occurs when you think you did everything right.   Wanted to add a Kinura to our seven rank Wurli, but had no space for the full length single chest. So we had the brillant idea of cutting a chest = in half and mounting the halves side by side. That meant creating new end panels for the cut ends. I made them very carefully to the right dimension out of 3/4 marine plywood, which is nice and stable, right?   WRONG!   The original sugar pine chest was modified during the during the summer. = It all fitted very nicely. New gaskets under the toe boards, etc.   A few weeks ago we tried to fire it up and had no end of problems! Notes = on the end malfunctioning. Found huge air leaks under the toeboard ends! Strange because the gasketing was new and the screws were tight. Upon removing the toeboards we found that the plywood end panels were HIGHER than the pine side walls. Why? Because it is winter now, the air is dry = and the pine shrank and the nice stable plywood did NOT! Live and learn. We used an RTV filler for now, don't relish redoing that chest.   John V      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re: [Residence Organs] Mixture Chest From: <Pipewheezr@aol.com> Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:24:57 EST   Hi I don't have a solution for the dead notes,just a warning.The organ men =   tell you not to place pipes untill the chest is winded and wired,and do = not place the pipes until you can do it on the wind.Meaning with the valve open,espicialy with reads you don't want chance of dust entering the = pipe.I have cleaned and vacumed and blown out chest's the placed the chest and = then the pipes and then wind and wired and had dust in the pipe on some .Not = fun.I have a 3-rank mix.on the shelf all clean not wired ot winded and the pipes =   are in boxes near buy very tempting!!!!!   Dennis  
(back) Subject: Mixture Chest From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:46:53 -0500   John Vanderlee <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> and Dennis Allen <Pipewheezr@aol.com> both mentioned some important things to consider.   When building chests, watch out for wood movement. Solid lumber should be =   arranged so that the movement is least likely to disrupt things, and sufficient good quality packing material (leather!) needs to be used to help bridge the gaps. Remember that a "flat sawn" board (what you usually =   get) will move relatively little along its length and thickness but more along its width. Don't be surprised if a 10" wide board changes by 1/8" = or even more. Therefore, the end of a chest should probably be a board with its grain ("length") running across the chest; in effect, it is a continuation of the piece that makes up the side. It will then move the same way the side move, and so the top board will move up and down in conjunction with them both.   Operating the chest without the pipes is a good way to get rid of dust and =   also a good way to check that the valves have sufficient extra power to open against the wind pressure. When the pipes are in place, the toe hole =   is in effect throttled down, and there will be some back-pressure, making it easier for the valves to open. If they open with no pipes present, = then they should work just fine with the pipes there. If not, at least you don't have to remove (and store!) the pipes while you fix the problems!   Tom Dimock suggested the use of talcum powder. I believe it is a good = idea to brush and talc the valves before installation, especially if they are veterans. That gives you a good opportunity to examine them for bits of embedded crud or for other problems. (I was going to JOKINGLY suggest pouring talc into the blower intake, but I won't -- and didn't!)   Larry Chace  
(back) Subject: stop keys From: "Gary Black" <gblack@ocslink.com> Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 07:25:40 -0600   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0054_01BF802A.AF178840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Hi list, Someone earlier mentioned the Estey stop control panel that =3D looked like a mini keyboard. I had to play one of those on the Estey =3D that I am installing at home and what a riot! You could bring many =3D stops on and off at once BUT the action that you had to do was less than = =3D elegant. Kind of like pouncing in for the kill. =3D20   I have a Hinners console now and switched from stop keys to rocker tabs. = =3D I have always thought that stops keys look like rows of large teeth. = =3D " Ah, the better to bite you with my dear." Have fun. Gary   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0054_01BF802A.AF178840 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D3D"text/html; charset=3D3Diso-8859-1" =3D http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3D3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Hi list,&nbsp; Someone earlier&nbsp; = =3D mentioned the=3D20 Estey stop control panel that looked like a&nbsp; mini keyboard.&nbsp; I = =3D had to=3D20 play one of those on the Estey that I am installing at home and what = a=3D20 riot!&nbsp; You could bring many stops on and off at once BUT the action = =3D that=3D20 you had to do was less than elegant.&nbsp; Kind of like pouncing in for = =3D the=3D20 kill.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>I have a Hinners console now and =3D switched from stop=3D20 keys to rocker tabs.&nbsp; I have always thought that stops keys look =3D like rows=3D20 of large teeth.&nbsp; " Ah, the better to bite you with my dear."&nbsp; = =3D Have=3D20 fun.&nbsp;&nbsp; Gary</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0054_01BF802A.AF178840--