DIYAPASON-L Digest #11 - Wednesday, January 19, 2000
 
Re: [Residence Organs]  Glue Pots---
  by <GRSCoLVR@aol.com>
Re: Glue Pots---
  by <TheGluePot@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  rectifier wiring
  by "Mac Hayes" <mach37@ptw.com>
Wiring Color Codes
  by "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  rectifier wiring
  by "Ron Natalie" <ron@sensor.com>
re: wiring color codes
  by "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Wiring Color Codes
  by "Mac Hayes" <mach37@ptw.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  re: wiring color codes
  by "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com>
Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Frank Vanaman" <fvanaman@speakeasy.org>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Tom Dimock" <tad1@cornell.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Glue Pots---
  by <Pipewheezr@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Tom Dimock" <tad1@cornell.edu>
Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Cheap Glue Pots
  by <DBnMOPS@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Cheap Glue Pots
  by "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net>
Re:  Re: [Residence Organs]  Glue Pots and Glues
  by <DBnMOPS@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Re: Glue Pots---
  by <WurlyOrgan@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Connectors for telephone cable
  by "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
Fwd: 4 Ivory Manuals 4 Sale
  by "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com>
Re-doing Pouchboards
  by "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net>
Terminations
  by "John L. Adams" <jadams@scioto.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Connectors for telephone cable
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
New use for Hot Glue?? (YUCK!)
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  re: wiring color codes
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  rectifier wiring
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
Re: [Residence Organs] Wiring color code schemes in 32 Pair cables
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net>
 

(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Glue Pots--- From: <GRSCoLVR@aol.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 00:48:02 EST   Hi Listers---- Some months ago, glue pots and the use thereof etc. was covered on this or =   another list. At that time,,,someone recommended making up a small baby = food jar, or pickle jar worth of glue, and keeping it hot on one of those small =   "hotplates" made for a mug of coffee, letting it cool after use,,capping = it and storing in the fridge to keep the mold and spores outta it. When ready = to use it again, microwave it up hot, and put back on the hotplate again for re-use. I gotta say,,,I immediately adopted that method and have been = quite satisfied with the operation. Glue pots seem only to be available in about =   quart size,,and that should be enuf to do a whole organ! Aside from that, = if one puts just a "little" in the bottom of the glue pot,,,the thermostatic control does not seem to work as well as a full pot and it will burn. And = the surface area in a glue pot is so much larger,,the glue "skins" and = thickens at a more rapid rate than in a smaller jar. Just a thawt---- Regards, ---Roc  
(back) Subject: Re: Glue Pots--- From: <TheGluePot@aol.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 04:33:33 EST   The best shaped jar is Kraft Marshmellow Cream (IMHO). It is wide on the bottom and more narrow on the top and sits just fine in water in the = electric glue pot. This way the glue pot is used only as a water bath and there = are no cleanup problems. When one of the glue jars is empty it goes into the dishwasher and comes out ready for another batch.   Al Sefl Sniffing Hot Glue for 40+ years with no ill effects...............  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] rectifier wiring From: "Mac Hayes" <mach37@ptw.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 05:05:49 -0800   Richard Schneider wrote:   > Rectifiers are basically "generic" devices, in that the basic > requirement is that they are capable of delivering the maximum amount of > power that the organ requires. In other words: if the organ requires > some 60 amps of power (and few do that you'll come across!), than a 30 > amp supply ain't gonna cut it.   Super information, Rich. Now, how about using multiple rectifiers? I = have two 20A Durst rectifiers - if the time ever comes that I need more than 20A, should I parallel the = outputs of the two, or separate the outputs to run different divisions?   And how about the telco wiring color code? I have never seen a printed = code sheet. I suppose it is based on resistor color coding, but the stripes complicate things, besides = there being more than ten notes in an octave.   Mac Hayes    
(back) Subject: Wiring Color Codes From: "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 07:18:30 -0600   Since Richard Schneider mentioned in his post the importance of following the correct Color Codes when doing wiring I have posted to the Resources page on the list's web site: http://diyapason.pipechat.org , copies of the Color Codes for 50 pair (100 wire) cables. There are two versions, an Adobe PDF document, which requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and a MS Excel spreadsheet.   Most people do not use cables larger than these 50 pair ones however, cables do exist in 100 pair and even 200 pair versions. Unfortunately, I don't have the definitive code for the various bundles in these larger cables so those are not covered in the files. If anyone has the exact order for the bundles in larger cables, please let me know and I will update these charts.   Having dealt with wiring that has not been done to the color codes, I know that it can be a real mess trying to figure out what is what. To save yourself and others a lot of aggravation ALWAYS use the correct color codes when doing your wiring. It may take a little bit longer at the beginning, especially if you don't have the codes memorized, but those few minutes will save lots of time if at some point you need to figure out a problem and end up having to "ring out" each and every wire to find it.   David  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] rectifier wiring From: "Ron Natalie" <ron@sensor.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 08:23:46 -0500       Mac Hayes wrote:   > > Super information, Rich. Now, how about using multiple rectifiers? I = have two 20A Durst rectifiers > - if the time ever comes that I need more than 20A, should I parallel = the outputs of the two, or > separate the outputs to run different divisions?   Keep them separate. Most things in an organ would never notice a one volt = difference between the rectifiers, but they would if you plugged them together.   > > And how about the telco wiring color code? I have never seen a printed = code sheet. I suppose it is > based on resistor color coding, but the stripes complicate things, = besides there being more than ten > notes in an octave.   Ah! This I know about. I spent my former life as being in charge of telecommunications for the state university system.   A telephone cable is 50 wires grouped into 25 pairs. There are two sets = of colors, the first set are (in order): BLUE, ORANGE, GREEN, BROWN, and SLATE (GRAY) the second set are: WHITE, RED, BLACK, YELLOW, and VIOLET   Now each pair is identified by picking one from each set. The first pair = has one wire WHITE with a BLUE stripe and the other BLUE with a WHITE stripe. The = numbering goes, starting with WHITE, pair it with each of the first set colors, then = go to RED, etc....   1 WHITE-BLUE 2 WHITE-ORANGE 3 WHITE-GREEN 4 WHITE-BROWN 5 WHITE-SLATE 6 RED-BLUE 7 RED-ORANGE 8 RED-GREEN .. .. ..   Once you get in the swing of it, it goes quite easily. I wired 25pair = cable all over my last house and I think I had exactly one pair reversed in the whole = mess.  
(back) Subject: re: wiring color codes From: "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 07:42:36 -0600   Hello, List!   In addition to David's fine info, it should be noted that the Chart as shown is also applicable for cable sizes *smaller* than 50-pair.   Our firm commonly uses cable in 2, 3, 12, 25, and 50 pr sizes -- in each case just follow the code chart from #1 until you run out of wires!   Thanks, David, for providing the Charts!   Tim <tmbovard@arkansas.net>  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Wiring Color Codes From: "Mac Hayes" <mach37@ptw.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 05:46:24 -0800   David Scribner wrote:   > Since Richard Schneider mentioned in his post the importance of > following the correct Color Codes when doing wiring I have posted to > the Resources page on the list's web site: > http://diyapason.pipechat.org , copies of the Color Codes for 50 pair > (100 wire) cables....   Thanks for that, David. I have two 6-rank manual chests and 4 or 5 offset = chests, none of which follow any standard - although some of them use telco cables. I will = probably rewire them rather than try to deal with the hodge-podge.   Mac Hayes      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] re: wiring color codes From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:15:09 -0500   Another variety of "telephone" cable is a 64-conductor (32-pair) size that =   is available from Organ Supply. This consists of two 16-pair bundles, the =   first a "white" bundle and the second an "orange" bundle; within each bundle the wires are "numbered" 1-32. The bundles are identified by pairs =   of colored plastic tracer strips that also follow the standard color code. For a very large cable, those bundles are themselves bundled, again =   using the same colored tracer strips. You can go on "forever" with this scheme.   In a way, it is too bad they didn't use the resistor color code, but the telephone industry seems to have a history all of its own!   Larry Chace  
(back) Subject: Connectors for telephone cable From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:18:59 -0500   (I changed the subject field to match the slight change in subject!)   Many companies sell connector that are designed for use with 50-wire (25-pair) telephone cable. Many of these let you "punch down" the wire onto the connector, which therefore has "insulation displacement connection" points that both strip the insulation and grip the copper conductors.   For telephonic use, the 50-position connectors are a good match, but for organic use, it is often convenient to use 64-position (32-pair) cable. Does anyone know of a source for similar connectors of this size? They would be useful for 61-note chests.   Larry Chace  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Frank Vanaman" <fvanaman@speakeasy.org> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:23:35 -0500   Hi List and Larry-   Larry Chace wrote: > > For telephonic use, the 50-position connectors are a good match, but for > organic use, it is often convenient to use 64-position (32-pair) > cable. Does anyone know of a source for similar connectors of this > size? They would be useful for 61-note chests. >   When Sam LaRosa built up my 'third hand' Peterson relay (a small part of a very large relay which he bought from Bob Maes, who got it from that 5 manual hotel organ in Albequerque...my how this stuff wanders around), he used 64 position connectors for the manual inputs. They're similar in shape to the commonly known 50 position 'amp' or 'amphenol' connector so prevalent in the telephone world, so they are available.   I don't however, know where he got them. I don't recall seeing the 64 position connectors in Newark or Digi-key, FWIW.   The next time I speak with Sam, I'll ask where he got them....   Frank Vanaman Baltimore  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Tom Dimock" <tad1@cornell.edu> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:36:16 -0500   At 09:18 AM 01/19/2000 -0500, you wrote: >For telephonic use, the 50-position connectors are a good match, but for >organic use, it is often convenient to use 64-position (32-pair) >cable. Does anyone know of a source for similar connectors of this >size? They would be useful for 61-note chests.   Well, they seem to go directly from 50 position to 100 position. Here's a source for 100 position blocks at $20.99 each. http://www.atexelectronics.com/Networking/patchpanels.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= - Tom Dimock ---- Cornell University ---- tad1@cornell.edu "There go my people. I must follow them, for I am their leader." M. = Gandhi  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Glue Pots--- From: <Pipewheezr@aol.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:44:59 EST   Hi organ holic's.Another glue that I have had good luck with is fish glue that Columbia organ leather sell's.It does dry too fast because it is not heated ,if you need more working time you add a little more or glue.I = would not have be able to do pouch work at night in the house with a glue pot going, it is a little to fragrent.Dog's would be going crazy along with my =   wife.Fish glue need's no heat,comes off easy with water,it is great for repair's in hard to get to location's.Even the organ guy who used to be = down hill wi;; use it for that.Call Columbia Organ Leather's if you are intrested.I will find the number today and put up tomorrow.They also do pouche's,and sell regulater leather and do releathering of all most any = thing. Dennis  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Tom Dimock" <tad1@cornell.edu> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:51:06 -0500   Here's another source.   http://www.derossi.com/hometech/techwire/head.html#40066M25 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= - Tom Dimock ---- Cornell University ---- tad1@cornell.edu "There go my people. I must follow them, for I am their leader." M. = Gandhi  
(back) Subject: Connectors for telephone cable From: "Larry Chace" <rlc1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:50:19 -0500   My friend Tom Dimock pointed out that my previous query about "connectors" =   was less than perfectly clear. His posting about "punch down blocks" was completely consistent with my query, as written, but what I wrote was not what I wanted to ask!   I wanted to ask about male/female connectors for quick and easy joining of =   64-wire (32-pair) cables. The similar 50-position connectors are similar to the "Centronics" type of connectors used on some personal computer = printers.   There are versions to which you solder each wire and there are others with =   little insulation displacement attachment points.   The reason for this, in part, is that my present plans call for chests = with 56 notes, from tenor F to top c of a 4', and so 50-wire cables are less than a perfect match.   Thanks again,   Larry  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cheap Glue Pots From: <DBnMOPS@aol.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:52:56 EST   I've found that an old "crock pot," available for a dollar or two at = thrift stores or yard sales, can work well for hot glue. Look for one that has a "warm" setting, and it'll probably hold near the desired 140 degrees. = Then put in a couple inches of water, and set your glass jar of glue in it. Since a pan of warm water and a "hot rag" are also handy when working with =   hot glue, I've also found that a glass-topped "hot tray" (back to the yard =   sale/thrift store) is excellent for keeping a pan of water at a good temperature. These were (still are?) sold for keeping food dishes warm = during a meal. My tray is about 18" long, and I keep a pot of warm water on one end. You can lightly wring out a cloth (a discarded terry wash cloth is good), fold it, and lay it directly on the glass surface at the other end before you make a glue joint, then you have a hot cloth ready to grab to clean up excess glue. I've found this to be really handy in doing reed = organ bellows or organ reservoirs. If you find the kind of warming tray that = has a special, hotter circle in one corner (intended for a coffee pot) it might work for warming hot glue also, but I haven't tried that. Last tip: If you're going to leave your hot glue unused for more than a couple minutes, I've found that putting a thin film of water on top with a =   couple squirts from a spray bottle, like an old "Fantastik" bottle set to "mist" (be sure it's cleaned completely free of soap!), will delay that "skin" from forming on the glue. Just give it a quick stir when you're = ready to use it again. Hope some of this is helpful--"it works for me." Doug  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cheap Glue Pots From: "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:05:12 -0500   Anyone ever try hot glue on pancakes or waffles?? It really sticks to = your ribs on cold winter days!   Rick      
(back) Subject: Re: Re: [Residence Organs] Glue Pots and Glues From: <DBnMOPS@aol.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:05:58 EST     In a message dated 1/19/0 11:49:52 AM, Pipewheezrwrote:   <<Fish glue need's no heat,comes off easy with water,it is great for repair's in hard to get to location's.Even the organ guy who used to be = down hill wi;; use it for that.Call Columbia Organ Leather's if you are intrested.I will find the number today and put up tomorrow.They also do pouche's,and sell regulater leather and do releathering of all most any = thing. Dennis >>   Columbia also has a website. Go to <http://www.columbiaorgan.com/> Doug  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:16:42 -0500 (EST)       i'm interested in the 32 pair connectors also. i'm currently wiring up 64 wire cables to go from the console to relay and it would be great to have the ends connectorized. also, if anyone knows if there is a 64 wire punch down block that has one of these connectors prewired that would be great too. i've seen these type of 50 wire punch blocks.     randy     On Wed, 19 Jan 2000, Larry Chace wrote:   > My friend Tom Dimock pointed out that my previous query about = "connectors" > was less than perfectly clear. His posting about "punch down blocks" = was > completely consistent with my query, as written, but what I wrote was = not > what I wanted to ask! > > I wanted to ask about male/female connectors for quick and easy joining = of > 64-wire (32-pair) cables. The similar 50-position connectors are = similar > to the "Centronics" type of connectors used on some personal computer = printers. > > There are versions to which you solder each wire and there are others = with > little insulation displacement attachment points. > > The reason for this, in part, is that my present plans call for chests = with > 56 notes, from tenor F to top c of a 4', and so 50-wire cables are less > than a perfect match. > > Thanks again, > > Larry > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org >    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re: Glue Pots--- From: <WurlyOrgan@aol.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:20:52 EST   Hope you don't smell like horse glue under the armpits. . . .  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:38:20 -0800   Hello Larry and List,   64 pin Centronics type connectors are indeed available from Chinch as = their "97 Series". These are a plastic shell idc version of the "57 Series" = Telco connector. Newark carries them.   Before you go to the expense of buying 32 pair wire and trouble of wiring the connectors, consider that you could buy a pre made 15' cable with 50 = pin connectors on each end for $10 to $15 (I paid $10.80 in quantity 20).   The unit manual chests on my Wurlitzer are diatonic and have two bottom boards for each rank. I cut a cable as necessary for each bottom board and wrote the extra wire off as "spares" in case of a problem in the future. = The other end of the cable was hooked to the punch down blocks at the relay.   Now I have a male connector on each bottom board and an associated female connector on the relay. Add one more cable of the appropriate length = between these two and the job is done for a total of $32.40 per rank (if you have 15' from chest to relay, longer cables are available). If I change the installation in the future, I change only the connector cables ( and = winding and....... :<) )   Hope this helps,   Joe     ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Chace <rlc1@etnainstruments.com> To: Residence Organ List <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 8:50 AM Subject: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable     > My friend Tom Dimock pointed out that my previous query about = "connectors" > was less than perfectly clear. His posting about "punch down blocks" = was > completely consistent with my query, as written, but what I wrote was = not > what I wanted to ask! > > I wanted to ask about male/female connectors for quick and easy joining = of > 64-wire (32-pair) cables. The similar 50-position connectors are = similar > to the "Centronics" type of connectors used on some personal computer printers. > > There are versions to which you solder each wire and there are others = with > little insulation displacement attachment points. > > The reason for this, in part, is that my present plans call for chests with > 56 notes, from tenor F to top c of a 4', and so 50-wire cables are less > than a perfect match. > > Thanks again, > > Larry > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org >        
(back) Subject: Fwd: 4 Ivory Manuals 4 Sale From: "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 15:54:35 -0600   This appeared on PIPORG-L for you that may have missed it.   David   >Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:39:59 EST >Reply-To: TubaMagna@aol.com >Sender: Pipe Organs and Related Topics <PIPORG-L@listserv.albany.edu> >From: TubaMagna@aol.com >Subject: 4 Ivory Manuals 4 Sale >To: PIPORG-L@listserv.albany.edu > >Four-manual stack; ivory and ebony; 1950 Moller >Walnut cheeks; riddled with pistons; Ivories badly worn on Great >Good for hobbiest, needs rebuilding, but a great start for the hobbiest's >dream console. >Pick-up only in NYC, $350.00 cash gets you the stack > >Moller Pedal Clavier from the same organ: $100. > >Lucky buyer gets one free cup of coffee and brutal NYC weather with = purchase. > >Seb Gluck (212) 979-7698 > >PS-- will TRADE for unaltered, completely original, fully restored 18th >century 2-manual and pedal mechanical action chapel organ -- and I'll = still >buy you the coffee. > >:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: >Note: opinions expressed on PIPORG-L are those of the individual con- >tributors and not necessarily those of the list owners nor of the Uni- >versity at Albany. For a brief summary of list commands, send mail to >listserv@listserv.albany.edu saying GET LSVCMMDS.TXT or see the web >page at http://www.albany.edu/piporg-l/lsvcmmds.html . >::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::    
(back) Subject: Re-doing Pouchboards From: "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:13:04 -0500   Something I'll pass on to fellow orga-nuts. Those of you lucky enough to re-do pouch boards, using egg-whites on the new pouches then talcum powder afterwards will lengthen the life of the leather.   Dip your finger in a cup of whites and rub it in the leather good- this seals the pores. After they dry, sprinkle talc liberally on the pouches = and rub that in. Trim your nails first. The talc has oils in it to soften the leather back up.   I've done this many times on organs and player piano stacks with very satisfactory results.   Also applying talc to cork and leather gaskets will keep the material soft and supple.   Rick dutchorgan+AEA-svs.net http://www.svs.net/Dutch        
(back) Subject: Terminations From: "John L. Adams" <jadams@scioto.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:39:48 -0500   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_003A_01BF62AC.90498EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Hi List, I'm glad to see others who use the telephone type of punch-down blocks. = =3D I've used them for years and think they are the next best thing to =3D sliced bread. A word of caution before buying a block. The configuration = =3D is such that some are split, meaning that the connectors across are not = =3D all connected. Some are, some not. That's an advantage sometime for you = =3D can get twice or three times the number of terminations on a 6 across =3D block for instance. Not good though if used for the typical spreader =3D where the pipe connects to one clip, then whatever operates that pipe, =3D i.e., the different relays, connect to the other clips in that row. For = =3D instance on my smallish organ of two manuals, 9 ranks, I use the blocks = =3D at the end of the main chest and bring all pipes to the block and tie =3D all relays to the same block. Makes for tuning and trouble shooting =3D easier. With the M66 block only one wire can go to a clip, hence the =3D multiple clips for multiple connections. Go to www.siemon.com for the =3D manufacturer but I buy mine from Graybar. A good tip - if you need 61 or = =3D 73 or 85 positions and only have 50 position blocks, go to your handy =3D dandy band saw and cut off what you need. Through the plastic only of =3D course. On the bottom boards of my Kilgen main chest I used a neat block = =3D that has a 25 pair connector as well as the punch down clips so if =3D necessary to remove the bottom board I only need to unplug the =3D electrical part. If you should accidentally acquire blocks that are =3D split, there are bridging clips available to rectify this. They are very = =3D cheap and can even be used as a kind of test plug. Hope this helps. =3D20   John Adams Circleville, OH   ------=3D_NextPart_000_003A_01BF62AC.90498EE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD>   <META content=3D3Dtext/html;charset=3D3Diso-8859-1 =3D http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type> <META content=3D3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3616.1301"' name=3D3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>Hi List,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>I'm glad to see others who use the = =3D telephone=3D20 type of punch-down blocks. I've used them for years and think they are =3D the next=3D20 best thing to sliced bread. A word of caution before buying a block. The = =3D   configuration is such that some are split, meaning that the connectors =3D across=3D20 are not all connected. Some are, some not. That's an advantage sometime = =3D for you=3D20 can get twice or three times the number of terminations on a 6 across =3D block for=3D20 instance. Not good though if used for the typical spreader where the =3D pipe=3D20 connects to one clip, then whatever operates that pipe, i.e., the =3D different=3D20 relays, connect to the other clips in that row. For instance on my =3D smallish=3D20 organ of two manuals, 9 ranks, I use the blocks at the end of the main =3D chest and=3D20 bring all pipes to the block and tie all relays to the same block. Makes = =3D for=3D20 tuning and trouble shooting easier. With the M66 block only one wire can = =3D go to a=3D20 clip, hence the multiple clips for multiple connections. Go to <A=3D20 href=3D3D"http://www.siemon.com">www.siemon.com</A> for the manufacturer = =3D but I buy=3D20 mine from Graybar. A good tip - if you need 61 or 73 or 85 positions and = =3D only=3D20 have 50 position blocks, go to your handy dandy band saw and cut off =3D what you=3D20 need. Through the plastic only of course. On the bottom boards of my =3D Kilgen main=3D20 chest I used a neat block that has a 25 pair connector as well as the =3D punch down=3D20 clips so if necessary to remove the bottom board I only need to =3D unplug&nbsp; the=3D20 electrical part. If you should accidentally acquire blocks that are =3D split, there=3D20 are bridging clips available to rectify this. They are very cheap and =3D can even=3D20 be used as a kind of test plug. Hope this helps.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>John Adams</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D3D#000000 size=3D3D2>Circleville, =3D OH</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_003A_01BF62AC.90498EE0--      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Connectors for telephone cable From: "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:36:24 -0600   Frank Vanaman wrote: > Hi List and Larry- > When Sam LaRosa built up my 'third hand' Peterson relay <snip> > he used 64 position connectors for the manual inputs. They're similar in > shape to the commonly known 50 position 'amp' or 'amphenol' connector so > prevalent in the telephone world, so they are available. > I don't however, know where he got them. > The next time I speak with Sam, I'll ask where he got them....   When you find out, could you let us all know?? THANKS!   Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL      
(back) Subject: New use for Hot Glue?? (YUCK!) From: "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:32:45 -0600   VEAGUE wrote: > Anyone ever try hot glue on pancakes or waffles?? It really sticks to = your > ribs on cold winter days! Rick,   Do they REALLY feed you that badly where you work that you have to resort to hot glue for Pancake syrup? If so, I have a job waiting for you in central Illinois!   Just EMAIL me privately!!! Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] re: wiring color codes From: "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:48:37 -0600   Tim Bovard wrote: > Hello, List! > In addition to David's fine info, it should be noted that the Chart as > shown is also applicable for cable sizes *smaller* than 50-pair. > Our firm commonly uses cable in 2, 3, 12, 25, and 50 pr sizes -- in each > case just follow the code chart from #1 until you run out of wires!   There are actually quite a large number of sizes available from the 1 pair up to 500 pair! The common sizes that we keep running spools of in stock for our work are in the following sizes:   3 Pair (for diatonically split offset basses)   6 Pair (for chromatic octaves)   12 Pair (for 2 octaves of whatever -sometimes good for stop action wiring)   16 Pair (great for Pedalboards!)   25 Pair (great for 49 note ranks, such as celestes)   32 Pair (great for 61 Note Primaries or chests)   50 Pair (great for "extended" ranks of 73, 85 or 97 notes, although in the smaller groupings, that results in a *LOT* of spares!)   The larger sizes beyond this don't have quite as frequent of application as in former times, in that they were usually used to make up the main cables between consoles and the organ proper. Nowadays, much of this is done by either fiber-optic or other forms of multiplexing the signals, rather than huge "analog" cables! Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] rectifier wiring From: "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:59:49 -0600   > Mac Hayes wrote:   > Super information, Rich. Now, how about using multiple rectifiers? I = have two 20A Durst rectifiers > - if the time ever comes that I need more than 20A, should I parallel = the outputs of the two, or > separate the outputs to run different divisions?   Then Ron Natalie responded: > Keep them separate. Most things in an organ would never notice a one = volt difference > between the rectifiers, but they would if you plugged them together.   That's correct. What would happen is that the "stronger" Rectifier would assume the load, up until it said "tilt", then it would all fall to the "weaker" one.   The best plan is to keep the negatives tied together between all of the rectifiers. On larger jobs, we frequently "plant" rectifiers everywhere they're going to be used, such as one for the Great, one for the Swell, one or two in the console, (depending on the # of drawknobs used, etc.) But in all instances, there's a healthy negative cable running between ALL of the rectifiers to keep them referenced to each other. Of course, one has to be sure with this scheme that the other side of the line is referenced back to the correct Rectifier! > And how about the telco wiring color code? I have never seen a printed = > code sheet.   David Scribner so kindly made one available on the reference page and made mention of it in a previous post.   Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Wiring color code schemes in 32 Pair cables From: "Richard Schneider" <arpncorn@davesworld.net> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:40:40 -0600   Larry Chace wrote: > Another variety of "telephone" cable is a 64-conductor (32-pair) size = that > is available from Organ Supply. This consists of two 16-pair bundles, = the > first a "white" bundle and the second an "orange" bundle; within each > bundle the wires are "numbered" 1-32. The bundles are identified by = pairs > of colored plastic tracer strips that also follow the standard color > code. For a very large cable, those bundles are themselves bundled, = again > using the same colored tracer strips. You can go on "forever" with this > scheme.   Hmm, interesting. You sure about the # count in each bundle? My experience has been with TELCO cables that if there were 64 wires, the first bundle consisted of 25 pair (50 wires) and had the Blue and White plastic lacing around them, with the remaining 14 in an Orange and White plastic lacing.   I'm not disputing what you said, but it makes me wonder if they had that cable made up "special"?   I use 32 Pair (64 wire) cable by the spool and mine all comes the way I describe, although I purchase mine from Clifford of Vermont, instead of OSI.   > In a way, it is too bad they didn't use the resistor color code, but the > telephone industry seems to have a history all of its own!   Obviously: they took kind of a dim view of resistors!! :o)   Faithfully,   "Arp in the Corn Patch" Richard Schneider SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Organbuilders 41-43 Johnston St. P. O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com Business EMAIL rnjs@family-net.net Personal EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com Web Page URL