DIYAPASON-L Digest #15 - Sunday, January 23, 2000
 
Re: [Residence Organs]
  by "Jon C. Habermaas" <opus1100@ameritech.net>
Power Supply Continuation
  by "Jon" <sparky@chesco.com>
Hide Glue.
  by "Bruce, David" <David.Bruce@compaq.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Hide Glue.
  by "Bernard C. Nordmann" <bcnordmann@cdmnet.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Hide Glue.
  by "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net>
 

(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] From: "Jon C. Habermaas" <opus1100@ameritech.net> Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 10:20:54 -0600     -----Original Message----- From: Jon <sparky@chesco.com> To: Residence Organ List <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> Date: Thursday, January 20, 2000 7:57 PM Subject: [Residence Organs]     >Hi! My name is Jon and I'm 17. I'm rebuilding an organ into my living >room (currently 7 ranks soon to be around 12). With my parents blessings >of course. (a little sarcasm there). Maybe somebody has done something >like this before but I somehow doubt it.   Welcome aboard Jon,   My name is Jon and over forty years ago when I was your age I put a pipe organ in my parents home. They were probably a little less liberal than your folks..because the living room never came into consideration. We had a rec room in the basement (which was about the same size as the living room (12X22)) where the console was located. The organ spoke directly into the rec room from the adjacent chamber. Our organ was a theatre type and it took several years to find all the parts I needed. That of course was part of the fun of it.   I found your posting about the rectifier very interesting. Just out of curiosity, did you try replacing the CAPS in the orga-lectra. With no load on the unit there shouldn't have been any ripple. If there was then the filter caps were bad...if ripple increased as the current was drawn that would also indicate bad filter caps. The load on the rectifier should be small from a straight organ. On a unit organ where each pipe has its' own magnet it would be much greater,   Don't misunderstand me....I am not faulting your power supply project. Some of us don't have the expertise to go into building up a PS that deeply.   The reason that the orga-lectra has different tapped voltages available = was because of the IR drop caused by long DC wire runs to the console and the organ chambers. The taps were set to give the needed voltage in the organ chamber. In a home were the runs are reasonable short using a higher output voltage would not be necessary. In churches (and or auditoriums) the rectifiers were usually located .in the blower rooms....in many cases replacing belt driven generators. It was far easier to locate the replacement there.   Good luck on your project. Keep us posted our your progress.   (old) Jon      
(back) Subject: Power Supply Continuation From: "Jon" <sparky@chesco.com> Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 15:48:10 -0500   >I found your posting about the rectifier very interesting. Just out >of curiosity, did you try replacing the CAPS in the orga-lectra. >With no load on the unit there shouldn't have been any ripple. >If there was then the filter caps were bad...if ripple increased as >the current was drawn that would also indicate bad filter caps. >The load on the rectifier should be small from a straight organ. >On a unit organ where each pipe has its' own magnet it would >be much greater,   The old cap was definately bad! And at 6000 uf, it wasn't worth its = weight in plastic. I replaced (i can't believe I forgot this!) the 6kuf with two 250,000 uf caps. 500kuf of capacitance is more to my taste. There was ripple (no load) because it had a shunt resistor inside. The dumb thing served no purpose but to make ripple (if u ask me). Reality is it was preventing a voltage buildup on the caps (rated at like 18 volts). Ripple definately increased with current, but isn't that to be expected with any power supply? As more current gets drawn from the supply, the caps can't "fill in" between the peaks of ripple voltage due to being quickly discharged by the load.... just a thawt...   >Don't misunderstand me....I am not faulting your power supply project. >Some of us don't have the expertise to go into building up a PS >that deeply.   Its ok... i don't mind critisism (but when the critic can't admit they're wrong as happened on TO-l list, I get annoyed). In fact, I welcome it = when it comes to my Moller modifications... I like to know if everyone thinks I'm out of my mind for a wind pressure sensor (I have the LCD display but can't find low pressure pressure sensors cheap enuf for my liking) or the regulator headroom meter, or the voltage meter.   >The reason that the orga-lectra has different tapped voltages available = was >because of the IR drop caused by long DC wire >runs to the console and the organ chambers. The taps were set >to give the needed voltage in the organ chamber. In a home were the >runs are reasonable short using a higher output voltage would not >be necessary. In churches (and or auditoriums) the rectifiers were >usually located .in the blower rooms....in many cases replacing >belt driven generators. It was far easier to locate the replacement >there.   I understand the purpose of a high voltage tap, but I don't need a high voltage in my house,,,, the longest wire run is probably 15 feet. Maybe = .1 volt drop? Its not too high...     Jon Buchanan        
(back) Subject: Hide Glue. From: "Bruce, David" <David.Bruce@compaq.com> Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:01:05 +0800   Can anyone give me some directions for mixing and cooking hide glue.   I have used hide glue in the past, but have never had to do the initial preparation.   I currently have a supply of hide glue (flakes/granules) from Organ Supply Industries, but there is no data on gram strength or mixing ratios given.   I ahave checked the diyapason resources section and the links from there, but the mix ratios seem to vary widely, with some using simple 50/50 by volume, and others using other ratios, and others using weights.   I followed an interesting thread about this on the theatre organ list some time back and thought I had saved the information, but when I went looking for it I could not find it. I am also interested in methods which reheat the glue in a microwave, as I currently do not have access to a glue-pot.   Thanks in advance.   David Bruce    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Hide Glue. From: "Bernard C. Nordmann" <bcnordmann@cdmnet.com> Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 19:55:57 -0600   At 08:01 AM 1/24/00 +0800, you wrote: >Can anyone give me some directions for mixing and cooking hide glue.     I, and others I'm sure, do it the "easy" way buy putting a quantity of flakes or granules into the pot, and adding just enough water to cover. = Let sit, ideally, for three or four hours then heat.   Of coarse, you can deviate from this for special situations.   Hello all,     - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bernie Nordmann, St. Louis, MO -- Owner of a 3/13 Wurlitzer/Barton/Kimball/Dennison/whatever -- Registered Piano Technician, Piano Technicians Guild -- Full time computer consultant - Nordmann Consulting, Inc. -- Amateur radio operator, call sign KV0W -- Husband, father - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Hide Glue. From: "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net> Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 00:01:50 -0500   Generally what I do is fill the bottom of the pan with granuals, and add water to just cover the top of the granuals. As it heats, the consistancy can be checked to add more glue to thicken, or add water to thin.   Reheating in a nuke-oven, add just a little water so it can cook up again.   Tip: on gluing leather (or whatever) to end-grain wood, coat a thin = "primer" of glue, let it soak in and dry to seal the open grain, then paint on = more glue to apply leather- or whatever.   Rick