DIYAPASON-L Digest #88 - Friday, May 5, 2000
 
More Leather
  by "John Burns" <burnsjr@prodigy.net>
Re: Leathered Lips on Tibia question (was More Leather)
  by <TheGluePot@aol.com>
RE: [Residence Organs]  Re: Leathered Lips on Tibia question (wasMore Lea
  by "John Burns" <burnsjr@prodigy.net>
 

(back) Subject: More Leather From: "John Burns" <burnsjr@prodigy.net> Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:21:50 -0400   Another leather usage question, this time on labial pipes. If I'm releathering the upper lip of a tibia:   1. What type of leather is best to use? On this one, I know that the = smooth side goes on the outside.   2. Are there different recommended thicknesses for the different pipe = sizes? I know that you could measure what's on there now, but if they've already been redone once, this assumes that the person before you knew what they were doing. Not always a good assumption.   3. I assume that hide glue is the adhesive of choice. But would fish glue = be a good alternative?   Thanks, John    
(back) Subject: Re: Leathered Lips on Tibia question (was More Leather) From: <TheGluePot@aol.com> Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 17:18:53 EDT   > Another leather usage question, this time on labial pipes. If I'm > releathering the upper lip of a tibia: > 1. What type of leather is best to use? On this one, I know that the = smooth > side goes on the outside.   The thickness should be adjusted depending on where in the compass the = pipe is located. Bass pipes will require more thick leather for a larger curve = on the upper lip and I use a white stretched cowhide. A white cabretta works =   just fine on the upper octaves where the radius on the lip will be = smaller. > 2. Are there different recommended thicknesses for the different pipe = sizes? > I know that you could measure what's on there now, but if they've = already > been redone once, this assumes that the person before you knew what they > were doing. Not always a good assumption.   The thickness should be adjusted to give the pipe a nice twelfthy sound without being dull (too thick). This is also assuming some complete ass = has not messed with the windway to "open it up and let it breath" or do the = same with the toe hole adjustment. Try doing all of the Cs first with the gradiated thicknesses. Listen to them and think whether they are right or =   not. If too dull then go to more thin leather, too bright go to thicker leather. Then fill in the octaves with leather lips of corresponding thicknesses to bridge the differences. This process will not be critical = and you may put on two very different thicknesses from which it will be = difficult to hear a change. > 3. I assume that hide glue is the adhesive of choice. But would fish = glue be > a good alternative?   As a hide glue fanatic, I use it because it will allow me to put on the leather and take off the clamps in just a few minutes. Fish glue will = allow you to work the glue connection for some time but will require you to = leave the bent leather clamped for an extended period, worse if it is humid. = Just NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use any white glue that is casein or PVC-x based in = organ work where the item will have to be releathered, regasketed, or removed at = a future date. Likewise, NO GORILLA SNOT (GE Silicon)! Thanks, John   >> GOOD LUCK,   Al Sefl   p.s.: On shallot leather, my $0.02, mass produced pipework often used the =   leather as a shortcut to getting the reed tongue to a precise curve. A striking reed tongue really is not supposed to hit the shallot at all or = you will get buzzing. The leather is a quick and dirty fix saving on = precision curving by the voicers. There is nothing wrong with it but most fine = voiced pipework won't have the leather. Some manufacturers used burnt shellac to =   hold on the leather and soaking in alcohol (shellac thinner) will take off =   the old leather when water won't cut the mysterious "black" glue. I = usually leave the leather off and check the curve of the reed tongue after truing = the shallot face.  
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] Re: Leathered Lips on Tibia question (wasMore Leather) From: "John Burns" <burnsjr@prodigy.net> Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 00:25:49 -0400   Al,   Many thanks for that very comprehensive rundown. Being a rank amateur, I = was thinking fish glue since it would give me a chance to get things lined up, as I might not be fast enough to beat the hide glue cooling.   That reference to Gorilla Snot brought back some similar memories. An old friend of mine, Jim, taught me to work on cars years ago. When it looked like I was tightening something too much he'd say, "You don't have to give it the Godzilla Grip, John!" That advice has served me well through the years.   John   -----Original Message----- From: DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org [mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org]On Behalf Of TheGluePot@aol.com Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 5:19 PM To: DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org Subject: [Residence Organs] Re: Leathered Lips on Tibia question (wasMore Leather)     > Another leather usage question, this time on labial pipes. If I'm > releathering the upper lip of a tibia:   > 1. What type of leather is best to use? On this one, I know that the smooth > side goes on the outside.   The thickness should be adjusted depending on where in the compass the = pipe is located. Bass pipes will require more thick leather for a larger curve on the upper lip and I use a white stretched cowhide. A white cabretta works just fine on the upper octaves where the radius on the lip will be = smaller.   > 2. Are there different recommended thicknesses for the different pipe sizes? > I know that you could measure what's on there now, but if they've = already > been redone once, this assumes that the person before you knew what they > were doing. Not always a good assumption.   The thickness should be adjusted to give the pipe a nice twelfthy sound without being dull (too thick). This is also assuming some complete ass = has not messed with the windway to "open it up and let it breath" or do the = same with the toe hole adjustment. Try doing all of the Cs first with the gradiated thicknesses. Listen to them and think whether they are right or not. If too dull then go to more thin leather, too bright go to thicker leather. Then fill in the octaves with leather lips of corresponding thicknesses to bridge the differences. This process will not be critical and you may put on two very different thicknesses from which it will be difficult to hear a change.   > 3. I assume that hide glue is the adhesive of choice. But would fish = glue be > a good alternative?   As a hide glue fanatic, I use it because it will allow me to put on the leather and take off the clamps in just a few minutes. Fish glue will = allow you to work the glue connection for some time but will require you to = leave the bent leather clamped for an extended period, worse if it is humid. = Just NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use any white glue that is casein or PVC-x based in organ work where the item will have to be releathered, regasketed, or removed at = a future date. Likewise, NO GORILLA SNOT (GE Silicon)!   Thanks, John   >> GOOD LUCK,   Al Sefl   p.s.: On shallot leather, my $0.02, mass produced pipework often used the leather as a shortcut to getting the reed tongue to a precise curve. A striking reed tongue really is not supposed to hit the shallot at all or = you will get buzzing. The leather is a quick and dirty fix saving on = precision curving by the voicers. There is nothing wrong with it but most fine = voiced pipework won't have the leather. Some manufacturers used burnt shellac to hold on the leather and soaking in alcohol (shellac thinner) will take off the old leather when water won't cut the mysterious "black" glue. I = usually leave the leather off and check the curve of the reed tongue after truing the shallot face.   DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own Residence Pipe Organs. HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org