DIYAPASON-L Digest #297 - Tuesday, April 10, 2001
 
Re: [Residence Organs]  Organ installation
  by "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net>
Rackboard Modifications - recommendations?
  by "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Rackboard Modifications - recommendations?
  by "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com>
Re: Rackboard Modifications - recommendations?
  by "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com>
Re: Parts available
  by <Ed_Stauff@avid.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Re: Rackboard Modifications - recommendations?
  by <Pipewheezr@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Organ installation
  by <Pipewheezr@aol.com>
making new rackboards
  by "John Durgan" <kimbalman@earthlink.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Rackboard Modifications - recommendations?
  by "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu>
RE: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by "Elders, Craig" <c.elders@tcu.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu>
RE: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by <DEMPAR1@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
making new rackboards
  by <TheGluePot@aol.com>
Centering jig
  by "Jane and Dave Whitmore" <JDWhitmore@worldnet.att.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  making new rackboards
  by <DBnMOPS@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Centering jig
  by <DEMPAR1@aol.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Centering jig
  by "Mike Gettelman" <mike3247@earthlink.net>
 

(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Organ installation From: "VEAGUE" <dutchorgan@svs.net> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 06:35:19 -0500   Re: 24-foot Ryder truck >   Only nine ranks of WurliTzer to include a 16-foot wood Diaphone, = upright piano, console, relay, etc. Helpful guys knew what they were doing. Believe me, that truck was = packed to the hilt. Raising the trucks' overhead door greeted you with the = Spencer blower.   Rick    
(back) Subject: Rackboard Modifications - recommendations? From: "Dave McClellan" <drmc@speedfactory.net> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 08:09:04 -0400   I need to modify a Vox Humana rackboard to accommodate an 8' Trumpet (Moller, 3" scale). Last night I attempted to estimate the diameter of = the boots at rackboard height (5" from top of toe board to top of rackboard) with a digital caliper. There were at least two complexities:   1. The boots were not truly round 2. The depth of the toe hole varies depending on the size of the pipe.   I go numbers like ranging from 1.013" to 1.022" for pipes 41-49 = (harmonic), and 1.051" to 1.059" for pipes 33-40. But I noticed that pipes 41-49 = would fit into a 1" diameter circle gauge (which is really larger than 1" to = allow for a pencil line!). The same was true for 33-40 (1 1/16" circle) and = 25-32 (1 1/8" circle).   The existing Vox rackboard holes are for the most part about 1/8" too = small.   I did research the PIPORG-L archives. They mention making a new rackboard (where money is no object), using Forstner bits, round files, or rotary sanders. Since I have a lot of material to remove I was thinking of investing in the appropriate size Forstner bits. I am concerned about tearout on the back (I would clamp a sacrificial board before drilling) = and maintaining the alignment with the toe hole (since I will not have a = center point to work with).   I'd like the opinion of this list, since I'm sure a lot of DIY'ers have faced the problem of racking pipes on a different chest.   If a pipe drops through a 1" circle template and stops at the correct height, can I assume the required Forstner bit is 1", or would it be the next available size up? In other words, does the drill size represent the size of the bit or the size of the resulting HOLE? I guess I could = actually go out and BUY ONE and see what happens.   I think an adjustable fly cutter is out of the question. Has anyone seen = an adjustable diameter SANDING device? This would appear to be the easiest solution (maintain center, and avoid tearout).   Thanks for any suggestions. And as usual with most DIY'er, cheap is = better!   Dave      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Rackboard Modifications - recommendations? From: "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 07:31:12 -0500   David   At the shop we use a set of tapered reamers to fit pipes to the rack boards. Our set is in 4 different sizes so that we can get a good fit. I would think that trying to use Forstner bits to enlarge the holes would be a bit difficult since there might be a centering problem with them in the old holes. I have no idea of how much a set of these tapered reamers, or even individual reamers would cost. The set we have are all on long shafts and fit on a drill.   The boot sizes of reeds are usually in groupings with anywhere from 6 to 8 notes having the same boot size so you might be able to find some reamers that would just cover the sizes you need to enlarge.   You also mention that some of the boots are not completely round - i would suggest that you get some adhesive-back felt and felt each of the rack holes. This will help adjust for the out of roundness of the boots. We actually felt rack holes for all the reeds we install. Of course, the rack holes need to be made bigger to take into account the thickness of the felt.   I do have a question for you to think about. Since Vox pipes are cylindrical the spacing on them can be closer than on something like a Trumpet that usually has "flared" resonators. Have you checked to make sure that the tops of the resonators are going to have enough room?   Hope this helps   David  
(back) Subject: Re: Rackboard Modifications - recommendations? From: "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 08:54:34 -0400   Dave McClellan asked for suggestions about enlarging some rackboard holes. Here are some, in random order:   1. Since reed boots tend to be fairly similar in diameter from note to note, you may be able "sample" some of them to get the required sizes. As Dave noted, the depth of the toehole also has an effect upon the precise diameter at the rackbaord.   2. A nice approach for reeds is to bore the holes larger than necessary = and then line them with felt. That has several advantages: (a) you don't need to bore exactly correctly, (b) the boot will be less likely to vibrate against the rackboard, and some folks say that helps keep the reed in = tune, and (c) it looks very elegant!   3. Since the rackboard already has holes, it will be difficult to align = the new holes if they are to be drilled out. Forstner bits are good, but you'll need to be able to hold the bit centered on the old hole.   4. It might work better to use that circle template to draw the new hole = on the rackboard and then use whatever is handy to enlarge the hole to the = new outline. Sanding drums are helpful in that you can get sets of them in various sizes; the biggest drum for a given hole will give the roundest results.   5. A final reaming with a pipe reamer might help round things out. Since = a tapered boot will contact the rackboard only at the top edge, you can rough-ream from the bottom and then finish off carefully from the top. = Sad to say, most pipe reamers, while large enough, are quite crude and were meant to be used in a bit-brace rather than in a device with a round = chuck. They also tend to be dull.   6. If you have a lathe, you might try making a tapered sanding drum that = is shaped like a pipe foot! (I said "might".)   7. You can also build a little mini-rack with various hole sizes for testing each pipe and determining the needed rack hole size. This is probably more useful when making a new rack.   8. Finally, you can use the old rack as a template and in fact make a new one. Then, the Forstner bits will be quite happy and the results will = also be better!   Happy boring!   Larry        
(back) Subject: Re: Parts available From: <Ed_Stauff@avid.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 09:59:00 -0400       JFick@aol.com wrote: >I may have a number of leftover parts from our church organ installation >and my own collection if you are interested. These are located in >northwestern Vermont near Lake Champlain.   I'm interested, but wouldn't be able to collect it for at least 2 years. I'm planning to put a pipe organ in the common house of the cohousing development I've invested in. If all goes well we'll break ground in Shelburne (VT) next year. I expect it will be at least a year after that before I can start collecting parts. So I don't expect you to hold anything for me, but thought I'd respond because I'll be in the area. (I'm not yet; currently I live in Fitchburg MA).   -- Ed   #=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D#=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D#=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D# | Ed Stauff, principal software eng. | I don't speak | "Specialization | | Avid Technology, Tewksbury MA, USA | for Avid, nor | is for insects." | | "ed_stauff#@#avid.com" (remove #'s) | vice versa. | -- Lazarus Long | #=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D#=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D#=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D#      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re: Rackboard Modifications - recommendations? From: <Pipewheezr@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:49:06 EDT     --part1_6d.121dcf27.28047762_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   My attempts at racking and boarding have resulted in these little tricks. 1. Use the old rack board as the guide, then use the forstner bit to get = the center. Circle the pin prick or it might get lost. Then remove the old = rack board and drill to size. 2. Make or borrow a sizing jig. The only problem with these is the depth = of the toe hole may not be the same as your chest toe holes, causing some = tight rack holes. I am planing to make my own jig and set the toe hole depth. = Then when I get on with the two choir chest's the toe and rack holes will fit together.( I like the idea of the tapered reamers. I will see if I can machine something at lunch time between 23 crankshafts that need = regrinding! I will let you know how it turns out.) 3. Make sure you have enough room for the resonators.( Made this booboo = also.) 4. To cut down on break out on the bottom of the rack board use a piece of =   cheapy plywood, unless you are going to run it through a planer after = words. 5. Have fun, this all takes time but think how it will sound when you get = it winded and tuned and your playing your favorite trumpet tune!   Dennis   --part1_6d.121dcf27.28047762_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2>My attempts at racking = and boarding have resulted in these little tricks. <BR>1. Use the old rack board as the guide, then use the forstner bit to = get the <BR>center. Circle the pin prick or it might get lost. Then remove the old = rack <BR>board and drill to size. <BR>2. Make or borrow a sizing jig. The only problem with these is the = depth of <BR>the toe hole may not be the same as your chest toe holes, causing some = tight <BR>rack holes. I am planing to make my own jig and set the toe hole = depth. Then <BR>when I get on with the two choir chest's the toe and rack holes will = fit <BR>together.( I like the idea of the tapered reamers. I will see if I can =   <BR>machine something at lunch time between 23 crankshafts that need = regrinding! <BR>I will let you know how it turns out.) <BR>3. Make sure you have enough room for the resonators.( Made this = booboo also.) <BR>4. To cut down on break out on the bottom of the rack board use a = piece of <BR>cheapy plywood, unless you are going to run it through a planer after = words. <BR>5. Have fun, this all takes time but think how it will sound when you = get it <BR>winded and tuned and your playing your favorite trumpet tune! <BR> <BR>Dennis</FONT></HTML>   --part1_6d.121dcf27.28047762_boundary--  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Organ installation From: <Pipewheezr@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:54:10 EDT     --part1_de.12e91a2a.28047892_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   We, me and two unsuspecting friends, at least they use to be friends, got = 26 ranks in a 24'van.Can you put a banana peal over a watermelon?           We did have to return to get the three manual console another weekend, I could not borrow or rent any organ dollies any where that week end. It was =   move your pie organ day in Sand Eggo I think.   Have fun Dennis   --part1_de.12e91a2a.28047892_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2>We, me and two = unsuspecting friends, at least they use to be friends, got 26 <BR>ranks in a 24'van.Can you put a banana peal over a watermelon? <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>We did have to return to get the three manual console another weekend, = I <BR>could not borrow or rent any organ dollies any where that week end. It = was <BR>move your pie organ day in Sand Eggo I think. <BR> <BR>Have fun <BR>Dennis</FONT></HTML>   --part1_de.12e91a2a.28047892_boundary--  
(back) Subject: making new rackboards From: "John Durgan" <kimbalman@earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:51:14 -0500   on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that each hole in the board is centered over the toe hole?   Help!   JOhn Durgan Mississippi    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:19:31 -0400   This isn't hard if you have the original rack boards, but when they are missing , that's another story.   I have two pedal chests that had no rack boards for the 8' pipes and up. After thinking about it I took a piece of 1/16 Lexan I had lying around. I then cut that to the size that the rack board would be. Then I placed it in position over the toe board. Using a permanent marker and small scale to find the centers, I marked the toe holes and rack dowel pin holes. This could easily be transferred to another board by center drilling through the Lexan.   Of course for large rack boards Lexan or Plexiglass would be expensive. I suppose one could use like a Mylar film sheet or other.   Just some ideas.   Eric     At 10:51 AM -0500 4/10/01, John Durgan wrote: >on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting >the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original >thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each >hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? > >Help! > >JOhn Durgan    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Rackboard Modifications - recommendations? From: "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:34:45 -0400 (EDT)       you can get a decent set of cheap forster bits from harbor freight tools (http://www.harborfreight.com/). they are made in china but for the do it yourself organ hobbiest they work great. i think my set cost $39.00 and came in a nice wooden box. this is compared to about $200 for name brand ones from home depot. i believe woodworkers warehouse also sells cheaper sets.   also, i've found that if you use the existing rackboard as a template you can draw an X through the old holes. if you try and keep the lines as close as possible to the center of the old circle it will get you a pretty close center point to drill your new rack holes with forster bits.   enjoy.   -randy           On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Dave McClellan wrote:   > I need to modify a Vox Humana rackboard to accommodate an 8' Trumpet > (Moller, 3" scale). Last night I attempted to estimate the diameter of = the > boots at rackboard height (5" from top of toe board to top of rackboard) > with a digital caliper. There were at least two complexities: > > 1. The boots were not truly round > 2. The depth of the toe hole varies depending on the size of the pipe. > > I go numbers like ranging from 1.013" to 1.022" for pipes 41-49 = (harmonic), > and 1.051" to 1.059" for pipes 33-40. But I noticed that pipes 41-49 = would > fit into a 1" diameter circle gauge (which is really larger than 1" to = allow > for a pencil line!). The same was true for 33-40 (1 1/16" circle) and = 25-32 > (1 1/8" circle). > > The existing Vox rackboard holes are for the most part about 1/8" too = small. > > I did research the PIPORG-L archives. They mention making a new = rackboard > (where money is no object), using Forstner bits, round files, or rotary > sanders. Since I have a lot of material to remove I was thinking of > investing in the appropriate size Forstner bits. I am concerned about > tearout on the back (I would clamp a sacrificial board before drilling) = and > maintaining the alignment with the toe hole (since I will not have a = center > point to work with). > > I'd like the opinion of this list, since I'm sure a lot of DIY'ers have > faced the problem of racking pipes on a different chest. > > If a pipe drops through a 1" circle template and stops at the correct > height, can I assume the required Forstner bit is 1", or would it be the > next available size up? In other words, does the drill size represent = the > size of the bit or the size of the resulting HOLE? I guess I could = actually > go out and BUY ONE and see what happens. > > I think an adjustable fly cutter is out of the question. Has anyone = seen an > adjustable diameter SANDING device? This would appear to be the easiest > solution (maintain center, and avoid tearout). > > Thanks for any suggestions. And as usual with most DIY'er, cheap is = better! > > Dave > > > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org >    
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: "Elders, Craig" <c.elders@tcu.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:34:20 -0500   Greeting to all!   I have seen a builder take a roll of "tracing" paper. I don't know what else to call it as it was fairly thin, green tint in color. He would tape it down and take a pencil and hold it almost flat against the paper and = toe board. Then by lightly rubbing the side of the pencil lead over the = holes, you would come up with the outline of each toe hole. Then remove the = paper. He had, and I have one also, a small plastic "circle maker". It is about 8" across, clear and has different size holes in it for drawing circles. = On the outside is a series of different sized circles that you draw around = the outside to make circles. These outside circle guides have a hole in the center. So you can find one about the size of the marked toe hole. Center the right size circle over the toe hole you traced and mark the center through the plastic hole. Now you have the centers to mark on the new rackboard for drilling.   Happy organ-constructing to all!   Craig Elders   -----Original Message----- From: Eric Sagmuller [mailto:ess4@psu.edu] Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 11:20 AM To: Residence Organ List Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards     This isn't hard if you have the original rack boards, but when they are missing , that's another story.   I have two pedal chests that had no rack boards for the 8' pipes and up. After thinking about it I took a piece of 1/16 Lexan I had lying around. I then cut that to the size that the rack board would be. Then I placed it in position over the toe board. Using a permanent marker and small scale to find the centers, I marked the toe holes and rack dowel pin holes. This could easily be transferred to another board by center drilling through the Lexan.   Of course for large rack boards Lexan or Plexiglass would be expensive. I suppose one could use like a Mylar film sheet or other.   Just some ideas.   Eric     At 10:51 AM -0500 4/10/01, John Durgan wrote: >on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting >the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original >thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each >hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? > >Help! > >JOhn Durgan     DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own Residence Pipe Organs. HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:43:53 -0400 (EDT)         or just get a big roll of paper and tape it down over the top of the chest. then you can use a charcoal stick or something similar to make a rubbing of the toe holes. then you just transfer the paper template to the new rackboard and drill pilot holes right through the center ofthe toe holes into the new rackboard.   enjoy.     -randy     On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Eric Sagmuller wrote:   > This isn't hard if you have the original rack boards, but when they > are missing , that's another story. > > I have two pedal chests that had no rack boards for the 8' pipes and > up. After thinking about it I took a piece of 1/16 Lexan I had lying > around. I then cut that to the size that the rack board would be. > Then I placed it in position over the toe board. Using a permanent > marker and small scale to find the centers, I marked the toe holes > and rack dowel pin holes. This could easily be transferred to another > board by center drilling through the Lexan. > > Of course for large rack boards Lexan or Plexiglass would be > expensive. I suppose one could use like a Mylar film sheet or other. > > Just some ideas. > > Eric > > > At 10:51 AM -0500 4/10/01, John Durgan wrote: > >on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting > >the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original > >thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each > >hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? > > > >Help! > > > >JOhn Durgan > > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org >    
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: "Randy Newman" <rnewman@dilligaff.rutgers.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:45:37 -0400 (EDT)           you beat me to it! guess i should read all my email for i respond.     -r           On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Elders, Craig wrote:   > Greeting to all! > > I have seen a builder take a roll of "tracing" paper. I don't know what > else to call it as it was fairly thin, green tint in color. He would = tape > it down and take a pencil and hold it almost flat against the paper and = toe > board. Then by lightly rubbing the side of the pencil lead over the = holes, > you would come up with the outline of each toe hole. Then remove the = paper. > He had, and I have one also, a small plastic "circle maker". It is = about > 8" across, clear and has different size holes in it for drawing circles. = On > the outside is a series of different sized circles that you draw around = the > outside to make circles. These outside circle guides have a hole in the > center. So you can find one about the size of the marked toe hole. = Center > the right size circle over the toe hole you traced and mark the center > through the plastic hole. Now you have the centers to mark on the new > rackboard for drilling. > > Happy organ-constructing to all! > > Craig Elders > > -----Original Message----- > From: Eric Sagmuller [mailto:ess4@psu.edu] > Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 11:20 AM > To: Residence Organ List > Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards > > > This isn't hard if you have the original rack boards, but when they > are missing , that's another story. > > I have two pedal chests that had no rack boards for the 8' pipes and > up. After thinking about it I took a piece of 1/16 Lexan I had lying > around. I then cut that to the size that the rack board would be. > Then I placed it in position over the toe board. Using a permanent > marker and small scale to find the centers, I marked the toe holes > and rack dowel pin holes. This could easily be transferred to another > board by center drilling through the Lexan. > > Of course for large rack boards Lexan or Plexiglass would be > expensive. I suppose one could use like a Mylar film sheet or other. > > Just some ideas. > > Eric > > > At 10:51 AM -0500 4/10/01, John Durgan wrote: > >on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting > >the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original > >thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each > >hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? > > > >Help! > > > >JOhn Durgan > > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org >    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: <DEMPAR1@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:47:33 EDT   John Durgan writes: >But.....What is the best way to insure that each hole in the board is centered over the toe hole?<     In answer to John's question, I ran into this exact problem when I was = rebuilding some Wurlitzer chests. I took cut-rite wax paper, the kind you = can see through, and taped it to the toe board. I placed end marks to = allow me to align the paper again on the new rack board. With the waxed = paper stretched as tight as possible, I took a scribe and punched a hole = at the exact center of each of the toe holes in the top of the chest. Then = I transferred the waxed paper to the pre-cut rack board. It was easy to go = back with a "sharpie" and mark the center of each hole. If you plan to use = fostner bits to cut the pipe holes, you may also want to consider drilling = them before running the lumber through the thickness plane. That way, if = you do happen to splinter any of the hole edges, the problem is eliminated = when the board is planed.  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 13:10:44 -0400   >on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting >the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original >thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each >hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? > >Help!   There is a simple plastic jig that's available from most woodworker places that determines the center of any circle, cylinder, whatever. = "Woodworker's Supply" carries it. That chain is often near a Home Depot. For all I know they may carry it too. Or check the various mailorder catalogs. i.e. Constantine's   John V      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 13:17:01 -0400     Correction, that is "Woodworker's Warehouse"   >>on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting >>the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original >>thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each >>hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? >> >>Help! > >There is a simple plastic jig that's available from most woodworker = places >that determines the center of any circle, cylinder, whatever. = "Woodworker's >Supply" carries it. That chain is often near a Home Depot. For all I know >they may carry it too. Or check the various mailorder catalogs. i.e. >Constantine's > >John V > > > >DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own >Residence Pipe Organs. >HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org >List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org        
(back) Subject: making new rackboards From: <TheGluePot@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 16:44:36 EDT   > on the subject of rackboards, I have to make four new rackboards. = Cutting > the boards to the right final size, and planing them to the original > thickness is no problem. But.....What is the best way to insure that = each > hole in the board is centered over the toe hole? > Help! > JOhn Durgan > Mississippi Hello John and fellow Pipe Organ Owners:   Many good suggestions were offered by previous posts. My suggestions may = not be better, just different.   During my apprenticeship we were taught to make our own tools. One of the =   best tools to make is a "Toe Hole Center Finder." I've loaned mine out = but attached is a JPEG of Ron Downer's. It is a giant "C" clamp type of = device that lets a centering cone drop into the topboard toehole. Positioned directly above on the other arm of the jig is a pointed punch marker. = With the blank rackboard in place and the Finder over the selected hole, you = push the punch down to make a center hole in the virgin rackboard. Now you = have a vertically aligned center line for drilling. With pipes it is EXTREMELY important to have them truly vertical as some soft high tin content pipes = and soft lead pipes will fold over with time and gravity.   Holes are best reamed and sanded in place with a slight taper. I made a = dust catcher out of a PVC pipe "T" that goes under the hole being worked on and =   then to my shop vac. Tapered sanding drums made on a wood lathe then = covered with sand paper held on with rubber cement can make a hole nicely = finished. Don't forget to put a little shellac around the hole to seal the wood as moisture that gathers can "sugar" a pipe foot.   Randy Bergum has a rackboard jig for figuring sizes on the WEB someplace = in an ATOS/chapter site but I cannot remember where at the moment.   All three jig appeared in the ATOS publication *The Glue Pot* which is supposed to be resurrected since I left as editor. I currently don't have =   the issues before me. As for the centering jig, I will attach a photo = JPEG to see if the Residence Organs server will pass it along.   On new chests that I make I have a CNC vertical mill programmed to make 61 =   holes in both the topboard and the rackboard in under 5 minutes. All are perfectly aligned to a thousandth of an inch. I would never go back to = doing it manually unless it is an old chest that needs a new rackboard. Then manual ways are faster than measuring and programming.   One last thought, if doing the holes manually, masking tape across the = bottom of the rackboard will keep drills from taking out chips and splinters but = a clamped scrap backer board is better. Then the holes are clean and professional.   Best to everyone,   Al Sefl   PS: Second try, apparently the server won't pass an attachment so if you want a picture of the centering jig just e-mail me directly.  
(back) Subject: Centering jig From: "Jane and Dave Whitmore" <JDWhitmore@worldnet.att.net> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 20:40:05 -0400   Hi Al,   Well, I'm intrigued by the centering jig. Could you send along the .jpg? I =   was trying to imagine this but after a long day of grading papers and reading senior theses I'm just not up to it!   BTW, thanks for the great contributions that you post on all the lists. I always learn something from you and quite a few of your posts are now in the binders in the permanent organ shop notes.   Dave, in Vermont, where it's Mud Season    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] making new rackboards From: <DBnMOPS@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 20:41:49 EDT     --part1_b9.d01c7cc.2805024d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   In a message dated 4/10/2001 4:45:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, TheGluePot@aol.com writes:     > PS: Second try, apparently the server won't pass an attachment so if = you > want a picture of the centering jig just e-mail me directly. >   Hi Al, I enjoy your posts and, yes, I'd like the pic of the jig. Or is = that the thing-a-ma-jig? Thanks, Doug   --part1_b9.d01c7cc.2805024d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2>In a message dated = 4/10/2001 4:45:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, <BR>TheGluePot@aol.com writes: <BR> <BR> <BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; = MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">PS: &nbsp;Second = try, apparently the server won't pass an attachment so if you <BR>want a picture of the centering jig just e-mail me directly. <BR></BLOCKQUOTE> <BR> <BR>Hi Al, <BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I enjoy your posts and, yes, I'd = like the pic of the jig. Or is that <BR>the thing-a-ma-jig? <BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Thanks, <BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Doug</FONT></HTML>   --part1_b9.d01c7cc.2805024d_boundary--  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Centering jig From: <DEMPAR1@aol.com> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:36:36 EDT   Al, If you would send me a copy of the JPG file, I will be happy to add it to = the knowledge base on the ATOS SMGC Chapter website so everyone can = download a copy.  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Centering jig From: "Mike Gettelman" <mike3247@earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:12:58 -0400   May I have the link to this site too? This should save Al a lot of work.   Mike   DEMPAR1@aol.com wrote:   > Al, > If you would send me a copy of the JPG file, I will be happy to add it = to the knowledge base on the ATOS SMGC Chapter website so everyone can = download a copy. > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org