DIYAPASON-L Digest #452 - Monday, December 3, 2001
 
Rolltop
  by "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Rolltop--repairs for same
  by <GRSCoLVR@aol.com>
2' flute acquisition
  by "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Rolltop
  by "The Schneider Family" <arpschneider@starband.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Rolltop
  by "Ed Steltzer" <steltzer@gwi.net>
control system
  by "Ross & Lynda Wards" <TheShieling@xtra.co.nz>
Re: [Residence Organs]  2' flute acquisition
  by "The Schneider Family" <arpschneider@starband.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  control system
  by "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com>
my organ and Kelvin's reply
  by "Ross & Lynda Wards" <TheShieling@xtra.co.nz>
Re: [Residence Organs]  2' flute acquisition
  by "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  my organ and Kelvin's reply
  by "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  control system
  by <Mpmollerorgan@aol.com>
 

(back) Subject: Rolltop From: "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 14:04:04 -0500   Howdy folks,   Anyone ever fixed a rolltop? The one for my console is split in a couple = of spots because the "canvas" on the back tore.   Thanks, Eric    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Rolltop--repairs for same From: <GRSCoLVR@aol.com> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 16:41:31 EST   Eric-- Have repaired a few in my day. I gently soak off the dried rotted canvas, = get new of same from fabric store and glue back on, its another example of = where TO use hide glue,,,,that canvas is gonna rot out after a certain number of =   years. The old duffer that showed me how the first time said not to be concerned with "spacing" of the "slats" but to put them up tight,,,and finished his remarks with "after all you dont wanna see white canvas when = the top is rolled down now do ya?" Hope this helps. ---Roc LVRockafellow  
(back) Subject: 2' flute acquisition From: "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:52:58 -0700   Hi all,   I just received by UPS a 2' Flute that I bought used from a pipeorg list member. It is a very bright toned rank of spotted metal that looks little used and looks to be about 72 scale. The pipes are marked in handwriting 775 (opus number, I assume), 71 (the scale?), the pitch and then Flaut. I don't know where they came from or the builder but I was told that Richard Schneider sold them to Rick Maryman, who I bought them from. So maybe he will read this and tell me some more the history of the rank.   I was shopping for a 2' Piccolo to go in my very romantic 20's style choir division. But since any kind of upper work is a much needed commodity in = my organ, I took this without determining much about it's style. It turns out it has a very bright tone, almost like a principal. So I have to decide whether to revoice it into a flute or to save it till I can use it with more the tone it has now. The cut up is 1/4 of the mouth width.I borrowed several toe holes from another rank and put in several pipes in and find them to be too bright and too prominent for the choir division as they = are. I changed the windway and pulled the upper lip out on two of them, one of which then gave me a fluty tone quality. The other one still sounded like = a principal.   I am accepting opinions on this question.   Kelvin      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Rolltop From: "The Schneider Family" <arpschneider@starband.net> Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 19:05:41 -0600   Eric Sagmuller wrote: > Howdy folks, > Anyone ever fixed a rolltop? The one for my console is split in a couple = of > spots because the "canvas" on the back tore.   Hi, Eric,   Ditto Rocky's remarks about using Hide Glue for this work.   The only thing I'd add to this is that you want to take the entire top and build a retaining frame around it before you take it apart. I'd also number the slats so you put them back in the same order. Even though they *ought* to be the same, they sometimes are not (for a variety of reasons!) and the finishing work may be such that if you put them back out of sequence, it will look wrong, somehow.   However, the main reason for the retaining frame is so that you re-assemble the roll top square. It's just too easy to to it out-of-square and then it won't slide smoothly, or else you'll have a Parallelogram that will not roll down squarely. In other words: one end would be up from the Keybed when the thing's closed!   Hope this is of help!   Faithfully, Richard Schneider, PRES/CEO SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Pipe Organ Builders 41-43 Johnston St./P.O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX mailto:arpschneider@starband.net HOME EMAIL mailto:arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com SHOP EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com WEB PAGE URL  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Rolltop From: "Ed Steltzer" <steltzer@gwi.net> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 20:26:56 -0500   Last year I repaired the rolltop on our church pipeorgan using plastic flyscreen (strips about 5" wide) in place of the old canvas. Silicone = seal (clear bathtub caulk) works very well as adhesive because it is very flexible. Apply the adhesive only in the middle of each slat; keeping it away from the joints promotes longlife for the screening.   Ed, in Maine   ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> To: "Residence Organ List" <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 2:04 PM Subject: [Residence Organs] Rolltop     > Howdy folks, > > Anyone ever fixed a rolltop? The one for my console is split in a couple of > spots because the "canvas" on the back tore. >    
(back) Subject: control system From: "Ross & Lynda Wards" <TheShieling@xtra.co.nz> Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 14:46:29 +1300   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_002A_01C17CD2.750C47C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Dear List, I use that subject heading for want of a better word. I have a lot of =3D fabulous pipework that I'm gradually turning into a home organ here. =3D It's cost me virtually nothing (about $1000 total) as I've been wheeling = =3D and dealing for the last 25 years, sometimes selling out almost =3D completely when I've needed the money. However now, just retired, I need = =3D something to make it all go. I was intending to use an old relay system = =3D from an electronic organ of some 35 years ago, but my organbuilder =3D friend who is doing the tricky work, both electrical and otherwise, =3D thinks I really should have a new system for much greater reliability =3D and ease of unifying stuff. George (my friend) has just enlarged my =3D console from two decks to four (the fourth was something he did without = =3D even telling me till it was done) and greatly increased the size and =3D capacity of the stopjambs from about 32 knobs to, now, 104, for any kind = =3D of expansion and unification I might ever dream of, and to use the 100 =3D to 150-year-old convex-ivory-head-insert knobs with Gothic script that I = =3D have in plenty and would love to reuse as much as possible. I have all =3D the pipes, 40+ ranks dating right back to 1829 and as recent as 1992. I = =3D have the console complete with all the solenoids in place. I have good =3D blower(s). I have reservoirs, I have main cable. I have the space to =3D make it all go. I have chest space for about 25 ranks. I have =3D windtrunking. So, I need two things - 1. lots of 2nd-hand magnets to put into chests I'll make - not slider =3D chests - I haven't the skill. 2. some way of making all this go. I know I could theoretically buy the = =3D right software, printed circuits, you know what I mean, but as an =3D impoverished retired clergyman, I couldn't afford to go new, not even =3D remotely. I'm no electrician, but as I said, my friend George is. HELP HELP HELP what can I do? Can anyone come up with solutions to my =3D two problems? Has anyone 2nd-hand magnets and the relay system (??) or =3D circuitry (??) that I could somehow raise the money to ship over from =3D you to me here in New Zealand? Our only respectably large company in New = =3D Zealand have nothing to offer, at any price, and my organbuilder friend = =3D George doesn't want to countenance the heaps of stack switches I have =3D acquired over the years, as he reckons they'd cause more problems than =3D they'd be worth, being probably 30 years old already. I really am in a tizz about these two problems, so would hope this List = =3D has some answer.=3D20 Yours in fear, trepidation and cautious hope, Ross   ------=3D_NextPart_000_002A_01C17CD2.750C47C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3D3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Dear List,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>I use that subject heading for want of a better =3D word. I have a=3D20 lot of fabulous pipework that I'm gradually turning into a home organ =3D here. It's=3D20 cost me virtually nothing (about $1000 total) as I've been wheeling and = =3D dealing=3D20 for the last 25 years, sometimes selling out almost completely when I've = =3D needed=3D20 the money. However now, just retired, I need something to make it all =3D go. I was=3D20 intending to use an old relay system from an electronic organ of some 35 = =3D years=3D20 ago, but my organbuilder friend who is doing the tricky work, both =3D electrical=3D20 and otherwise, thinks I really should&nbsp;have a new system for much =3D greater=3D20 reliability and ease of unifying stuff. George (my friend) has just =3D enlarged my=3D20 console from two decks to four (the fourth was something he did without =3D even=3D20 telling me till it was done) and greatly increased the size and capacity = =3D of the=3D20 stopjambs from about 32 knobs to, now, 104, for any kind of expansion =3D and=3D20 unification I might ever dream of, and to use the 100 to 150-year-old=3D20 convex-ivory-head-insert knobs with Gothic script that I have in plenty = =3D and=3D20 would love to reuse as much as possible. I have all the pipes, 40+ ranks = =3D dating=3D20 right back to 1829 and as recent as 1992. I have the console complete =3D with all=3D20 the solenoids in place. I have good blower(s). I have reservoirs, I have = =3D main=3D20 cable. I have the space to make it all go. I have chest space for about = =3D 25=3D20 ranks. I have windtrunking.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>So, I need two things -</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>&nbsp;1. lots of 2nd-hand magnets to put into chests = =3D I'll make=3D20 - not slider chests - I haven't the skill.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>&nbsp;2. some way of making all this go. I know I = =3D could=3D20 theoretically buy the right software, printed circuits, you know what I = =3D mean,=3D20 but as an impoverished retired clergyman, I couldn't afford to go new, =3D not even=3D20 remotely. I'm no electrician, but as I said, my friend George =3D is.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>HELP HELP HELP what can I do? Can anyone come up =3D with=3D20 solutions to my two problems? Has anyone 2nd-hand magnets and the relay = =3D system=3D20 (??) or circuitry (??) that I could somehow raise the money to ship over = =3D from=3D20 you to me here in New Zealand? Our only respectably large company in New = =3D Zealand=3D20 have nothing to offer, at any price, and my organbuilder friend George =3D doesn't=3D20 want to countenance the heaps of stack switches I have acquired over the = =3D years,=3D20 as he reckons they'd cause more problems than they'd be worth, being =3D probably 30=3D20 y</FONT><FONT size=3D3D2>ears old already.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>I really am in a tizz about these two problems, so = =3D would hope=3D20 this List has some answer. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Yours in fear, trepidation and cautious =3D hope,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Ross</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_002A_01C17CD2.750C47C0--      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] 2' flute acquisition From: "The Schneider Family" <arpschneider@starband.net> Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 20:15:16 -0600   Kelvin Smith wrote: > Hi all, > I just received by UPS a 2' Flute that I bought used from a pipeorg list > member. I > don't know where they came from or the builder but I was told that = Richard > Schneider sold them to Rick Maryman, who I bought them from. So maybe he > will read this and tell me some more the history of the rank.   Well,   I don't often get the chance to see my name taken in vain, so I guess I'd better jump in.   I'm not sure I really remember much about the rank of pipes in question. As the saying goes: "I've slept since then". Unfortunately, many of the ranks of "stock" I acquired as part of purchasing an organbuilding company and then subsequently cleaned up and re-voiced and sold to various customers over the years came from places or sources completely unknown to me. Worse, the inventory program I had been using years ago crashed and burned and we have been completely unsuccessful in resurrecting it from the Dead. So what little information we were able to glean and put into the computer has been lost forever to the ages! > I was shopping for a 2' Piccolo to go in my very romantic 20's style = choir > division. But since any kind of upper work is a much needed commodity in = my > organ, I took this without determining much about it's style. It turns = out > it has a very bright tone, almost like a principal. So I have to decide > whether to revoice it into a flute or to save it till I can use it with > more the tone it has now. The cut up is 1/4 of the mouth width.I = borrowed > several toe holes from another rank and put in several pipes in and find > them to be too bright and too prominent for the choir division as they = are. > I changed the windway and pulled the upper lip out on two of them, one = of > which then gave me a fluty tone quality. The other one still sounded = like a > principal.   It probably was voiced intentionally as a Principal if I used a 1/4 cut-up on it. I'd imagine the nicking was also removed in the process, so it would be, indeed, bright. > I am accepting opinions on this question.   Sure! Re-voice the rest of the ranks of pipework to match! (This assures Job Security for me, you see. . . V.E.G.)   :o) Richard Schneider, PRES/CEO SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Pipe Organ Builders 41-43 Johnston St./P.O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX mailto:arpschneider@starband.net HOME EMAIL mailto:arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com SHOP EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com WEB PAGE URL  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] control system From: "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:25:17 -0700   Ross,   Are you going to use direct electric or electro pneumatic? I have never played a good organ on direct electric chests and many that were far less than good, and wouldn't consider it an option.   I had to solve this problem for my organ and figured out how to get ep chests to work with very inexpensive diodes, transisitors and resistors. = It was cheap and dirty but worked. I have replaced it all now with a wizzy computerized system.   If you are going to build direct electric chests, I don't think the transisitors I used would take the load.   Kelvin     > Dear List, I use that subject heading for want of a better word. I >have a lot of fabulous pipework that I'm gradually turning into a home >organ here. It's cost me virtually nothing (about $1000 total) as I've >been wheeling and dealing for the last 25 years, sometimes selling out >almost completely when I've needed the money. However now, just retired, >I need something to make it all go. I was intending to use an old relay >system from an electronic organ of some 35 years ago, but my = organbuilder >friend who is doing the tricky work, both electrical and otherwise, >thinks I really should have a new system for much greater reliability = and >ease of unifying stuff. George (my friend) has just enlarged my console >from two decks to four (the fourth was something he did without even >telling me till it was done) and greatly increased the size and capacity >of the stopjambs from about 32 knobs to, now, 104, for any kind of >expansion and unification I might ever dream of, and to use the 100 to >150-year-old convex-ivory-head-insert knobs with Gothic script that I >have in plenty and would love to reuse as much as possible. I have all >the pipes, 40+ ranks dating right back to 1829 and as recent as 1992. I >have the console complete with all the solenoids in place. I have good >blower(s). I have reservoirs, I have main cable. I have the space to = make >it all go. I have chest space for about 25 ranks. I have windtrunking. >So, I need two things - 1. lots of 2nd-hand magnets to put into chests >I'll make - not slider chests - I haven't the skill. 2. some way of >making all this go. I know I could theoretically buy the right software, >printed circuits, you know what I mean, but as an impoverished retired >clergyman, I couldn't afford to go new, not even remotely. I'm no >electrician, but as I said, my friend George is. HELP HELP HELP what can = I >do? Can anyone come up with solutions to my two problems? Has anyone >2nd-hand magnets and the relay system (??) or circuitry (??) that I = could >somehow raise the money to ship over >from you to me here in New = Zealand? >Our only respectably large company in New Zealand have nothing to offer, >at any price, and my organbuilder friend George doesn't want to >countenance the heaps of stack switches I have acquired over the years, >as he reckons they'd cause more problems than they'd be worth, being >probably 30 years old already. I really am in a tizz about these two >problems, so would hope this List has some answer. Yours in fear, >trepidation and cautious hope, Ross        
(back) Subject: my organ and Kelvin's reply From: "Ross & Lynda Wards" <TheShieling@xtra.co.nz> Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:32:35 +1300   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_002D_01C17CE1.4805A5A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Dear Kelvin, Thanks for responding. I'll use electro-pneumatic as far as about TenF, = =3D i.e. pipes below about 3ft in length, but almost all of the pipes above = =3D will be direct-electric (unless I can find some old slider chests =3D somewhere - I keep looking). I have found, in examining organs of this =3D kind, that the speech can be pretty good if the upperboard, i.e. between = =3D the magnets, is thick, thus avoiding too explosive an attack of wind. =3D I'll be using a minimum thickness of two inches as that works fine with = =3D pipes that 3ft pitch and upwards. I have lots of off-note chests for all = =3D the basses, some without magnets yet, being old pneumatic chests - these = =3D will become electro-pneumatic obviously. So, speech will be good, though = =3D not as ideal as slider chests. With my impecunious state I can't even =3D dream of the ideal, sadly. I'd rather have a bit 2nd-best than not at =3D all, in the same way that I'd rather have my 1987 Toyota Camry station =3D waggon than dream impossibly for a 2001 Mercedes.=3D20 Do write again, and thanks, Ross   ------=3D_NextPart_000_002D_01C17CE1.4805A5A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3D3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Dear Kelvin,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Thanks for responding. I'll use electro-pneumatic as = =3D far as=3D20 about TenF, i.e. pipes below about 3ft in length, but almost all of the = =3D pipes=3D20 above will be direct-electric (unless I can find some old slider = chests=3D20 somewhere - I keep looking). I have found, in examining organs of this =3D kind,=3D20 that the speech can be pretty good if the upperboard, i.e. between the =3D magnets,=3D20 is thick, thus avoiding too explosive an attack of wind. I'll be using a = =3D minimum=3D20 thickness of two inches as that works fine with pipes that 3ft pitch and = =3D   upwards. I have lots of off-note chests for all the basses, some without = =3D magnets=3D20 yet, being old pneumatic chests - these will become electro-pneumatic =3D obviously.=3D20 So, speech will be good, though not as ideal as slider chests. With = my=3D20 impecunious state I can't even dream of the ideal, sadly. I'd rather =3D have a bit=3D20 2nd-best than not at all, in the same way that I'd rather have my 1987 =3D Toyota=3D20 Camry station waggon than dream impossibly for a 2001 Mercedes. =3D </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Do write again, and thanks,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Ross</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_002D_01C17CE1.4805A5A0--      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] 2' flute acquisition From: "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:37:40 -0700   >Kelvin Smith wrote: > >> Hi all, > >> I just received by UPS a 2' Flute that I bought used from a pipeorg = list >> member. I >> don't know where they came from or the builder but I was told that = Richard >> Schneider sold them to Rick Maryman, who I bought them from. So maybe = he >> will read this and tell me some more the history of the rank. > >Well, > >I don't often get the chance to see my name taken in vain, so I guess >I'd better jump in.   I think that 'taken in vain' is a little bit strong. I don't think = anything negative can be inferred there. They are a very nice set of pipes both in appearance and sound.   >It probably was voiced intentionally as a Principal if I used a 1/4 >cut-up on it. I'd imagine the nicking was also removed in the process, >so it would be, indeed, bright.   I am inferring from this that I can just raise the cutup and presto I have a flute. I looked in the organ supply catalog and saw that they list piccolos at 70 scale and principals at 70, 72, 74 and 76 scale. So I am wondering what all is normally the difference between a piccolo and a principal since the scale can be so close to the same. The piccolo would have a higher cut up obviously, but I'm not sure how high is normal, 1/3?.   I wasn't sure if Rich Schneider was the voicer of these pipes, or if it = was just something that passed through his hands. I have fretted over many of my pipes and how to voice them to make my organ work together. If I could, I would get a professional voicer to come help me, but not only is it expensive, but I live so far in the boonies that I don't think anyone = wants to come way out here. So I puzzle over things for a long time and then do whatever I have decided to do. But it is kind of fun to be able to talk with the original voicer of the pipes and hear what their thoughts were. That isn't possible with any of the rest of my pipework.   Incidentally, the pipes have pretty heavy nicking. They hardly look old enough to have been through multiple voicings.   Thanks for the info Rich,   Kelvin      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] my organ and Kelvin's reply From: "Kelvin Smith" <KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:04:27 -0700   Ross and all,   I probably shouldn't rail on direct electric chests too much. I understand that with expansion chambers they can be made much more effective and I haven't played any DE organs where quality was very high on the priority list.   DE magnets take more current and you have to make sure your transisitors can handle the load, but switching is what transistors are all about. They only have three connections and if you make sure the electrical conditions are within the ratings on those connections and throw in the proper fuses, then they will do the job. You can buy them for cents apiece. You should = no doubt have a college degree in EE, but the truth is that if you do it = right it works. I say that because it is almost heresy to suggest that someone can do it themselves. If it becomes useful to you, I can tell you more details. People ought to be aware that switching need not cost thousands = of dollars for a die-hard do-it-yourselfer.   Kelvin   > Dear Kelvin, Thanks for responding. I'll use electro-pneumatic as far >as about TenF, i.e. pipes below about 3ft in length, but almost all of >the pipes above will be direct-electric (unless I can find some old >slider chests somewhere - I keep looking). I have found, in examining >organs of this kind, that the speech can be pretty good if the >upperboard, i.e. between the magnets, is thick, thus avoiding too >explosive an attack of wind. I'll be using a minimum thickness of two >inches as that works fine with pipes that 3ft pitch and upwards. I have >lots of off-note chests for all the basses, some without magnets yet, >being old pneumatic chests - these will become electro-pneumatic >obviously. So, speech will be good, though not as ideal as slider = chests. >With my impecunious state I can't even dream of the ideal, sadly. I'd >rather have a bit 2nd-best than not at all, in the same way that I'd >rather have my 1987 Toyota Camry station waggon than dream impossibly = for >a 2001 Mercedes. Do write again, and thanks, Ross        
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] control system From: <Mpmollerorgan@aol.com> Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 00:12:16 EST     In a message dated 12/3/01 8:21:59 PM, KelvinSmith@UntraveledRoad.com = writes:   >Ross, > >Are you going to use direct electric or electro pneumatic? I have never >played a good organ on direct electric chests and many that were far less >than good, and wouldn't consider it an option. >   I don't thinks there's anything wrong with Direct Electric chests if one = uses the good magnets and on larger pipes at least, have an expansion chamber between the valve and the pipe foot. In an offset toeboard being made new it's easy enough to sandwich 3 layers of 3/4 apply plywood and channel the =   center layer using a jigsaw before gluing up.   Reisner magnets also come with a pouch as an assembly, so they are essentially an electro-pneumatic setup, chances of finding those used are next to none.   If Ross was looking for the 90 or 150 ohm style magnets like Moller used, = and Reisner makes thru OSI they run NEW about $5 each, few people would bother =   collecting those up to sell used since they have two wires and two screws each, and for someone to sit down and remove all that it wouldn't be worth =   their time. Oddly enough the little replacement armature disks run almost half what = the entire assembly costs new from OSI!   I'm looking at buying a bunch of these magnets new, I had about 150 Moller = 90 ohm magnets, enough to finish one two rank chest. I have about 100 old = Kilgen magnets but they have a different style cap I don't like and smaller = exhaust ports, and the lead wires are too short to use without splicing in a jury rigged piece of wire from it to the brass pins I use. But at $5 each for brand new, that isn't bad, terrible thing is when you = need 73 for a rank that's $360 plus time 6 ranks that need magnets. Id rather spring for new over time instead of mixing and matching used = junk ones               Randall http://members.aol.com/mpmollerorgan/