DIYAPASON-L Digest #455 - Friday, December 7, 2001
Key covering removal
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(back) Subject: Key covering removal From: <> Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 21:59:12 EST   I am getting ready to modify an old Reuter great manual so I can use it in =   the chamber for tuning etc. The idea is there will be a terminal board in the Gt and one in the Sw for =   the chests, and from those I can wire in some multi pin sockets so the one =   keyboard will have it's cable and plugs so I can plug it in the board in = the Gt or the Sw as needed and when not in use, its unplugged and stored away. It has been stored in my basement with the old Swell manual, it's heated = to about 60 and a dehumidifier is there too.   It doesnt need to look great but I noticed the ivory on a few keys had warped/buckled up where the two pieces of ivory meet, never saw this = before! I canabalized the swell manual to use some of the better sharp keys to replace some really worn/ scratched sharps on the Gt manual I'm using. And = I used two natural keys to replace two that had ivories that were broken. Nice that both manuals appear identical and the keys from one fits the = other perfectly.   I also noticed the color of the naturals is identical to my Moller and I = have one key slip on the Moller Gt that has a chip on it's edge, I'd like to replace it since all the ivories on the Moller console are otherwise in excellent condition.   The keys however are not interchangeable, Moller's spring placement and = other differences abound. The slips are the same size and length as well as = radius in the front corners.     Any ideas how to get the ivory off the Reuter key intact? As well as the = old piece off the moller key without conversely; damaging the key? The Reuter is ivory not plastic, I took a broken piece and held it to a = flame and it didn't burn or melt. As an experiment I tried removing a slip from one of the other keys, = neither heat nor soaking in water seemed to have any effect. Neither method could = be used on the Moller key I want to save of course.     But under the slip or two that broke off, there is a thin sheet of white slightly textured sort of mastic type material? I thought these slips were just glued to the wood, or is the mastic type stuff whatever it is just to ensure there's no "show through" of wood = color?   I suppose the moller slip can be chipped off and the wood sanded to remove =   the mastic stuff, and maybe the Reuter key I can make a cut just under the =   ivory on the table saw and sand what's left of the remaining wood off the back of the ivory but there must be a better way.           Randall