DIYAPASON-L Digest #471 - Monday, December 24, 2001
Christmas Greetings
  by "Tony Newnham" <>
  by "David Scribner" <>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Springs and Weights
  by "Eric Sagmuller" <>
Re: [Residence Organs]  The "Joys" of releathering revisited
  by <>
Re: The "Joys" of releathering revisited Pt 2
  by <>
M=F6ller Windchest
  by "F. Richard Burt" <>

(back) Subject: Christmas Greetings From: "Tony Newnham" <> Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 08:21:16 -0000   Hi   Christmas greetings from Ashdon   Every Blessing   Tony    
(back) Subject: HOLIDAY GREETINGS From: "David Scribner" <> Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 06:28:36 -0600   ************************************* David Scribner List Owner - DIYAPASON-L  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Springs and Weights From: "Eric Sagmuller" <> Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 15:09:05 -0500   Thanks to all that contributed to the discussion. It gives me some ideas = to go on.   Also, a kind person from the list offered me a Schwimmer. Is there a problem if I would be able to use this on my Great along with standard regulators for the Swell and Pedal, as far as mixing them on the same organ? I know some people don't like to use them at all.   Hope all have a Blessed Holiday!   Eric    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] The "Joys" of releathering revisited From: <> Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 20:21:06 EST   Happy to say both reservoirs are finished! I guess the hardest part was the corners, OSI shipped a gussett skin which = I used on the smaller reservoir.. I decided to use the heavier stuff we use = in the shop for the corners of the larger reservoir and use the thinner stuff = I had for the toes. The thick stuff unfortunately is stiff and difficult to mould around the corners nicely!   Bob uses a hot plate and pan of water to keep rags hot, I used a large = crock pot at home and the electric glue pot for the glue. I found the dremel = with the 60 grit sanding drums really worked well removing the shiney white = finish on the leather. That was another reason I decided to go with the thicker leather- much less chance of sanding through and it's tougher overall.   The larger reservoir has weights and springs as well as a string pulled safety valve, the smaller one only had springs. WHile the top was opened = to it's maximum height with props, I put in a new string for the valve which = I had releathered last summer, and adjusted the valve so it was about 1/2" = open at the maximum height of the top. I am guessing it should be more but what should it be?   Randall  
(back) Subject: Re: The "Joys" of releathering revisited Pt 2 From: <> Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 20:31:13 EST   Hit enter instead of return and the mail sent instead of started a new = line...   Continued..   Last summer I had sanded and finished the reservoirs as well as reinforced =   them since on the larger one the sides had bowed out slightly and had only =   been glued to the center dividing board's dado. I installed screw blocks = in all of the inside corners. The large reservoir had a narrow board across = the width inside that the bungs screwed to on one side and the valve inside = had a large oval hole through it for. The hole had weakened the board and it was =   split. I replaced that board which was no small trick with maple and a = little thicker. Now drying the glue-up over night which should go well since the room is right now 80 degrees with 28% humidity! Tommorow I can vacuum the things out one last time, screw the bungs down = and start putting them in. I held off installing the small one since alignment =   and having to cut inlet holes and attach windlines I figured would be = better done with both on their stands. Getting that smaller reservoir downstairs by myself and on it's racking = was a bit of a chore, going to be fun with the bigger one since it's biger, = heavier and goes on a higher rack...     Randall  
(back) Subject: M=F6ller Windchest From: "F. Richard Burt" <> Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 21:06:17 -0600   Hello, Folks: =20 I have a large M=F6ller windchest crowding my=20 available workshop floorspace. This chest=20 was probably built ca. 1927-ish, give or=20 take a few years (just guessing). It was=20 originally designed for pipes on about=20 6 or 7 inches of wind (based on the cutups=20 on the pipes). =20 Make me an offer. I believe it has room for=20 nine ranks of pipes. The only firm part of=20 the negotiation is: if you take, you can't=20 bring it back. <grins> =20 I believe this windchest has some unification=20 or duplexing capabilities. I see little pipe=20 tubes runing up and down the channels. I won't=20 guess for you what all that means. =20 I will guess that the leathers inside are out=20 of date. =20 I have a few offset chests that came with the=20 organ, and a bunch of pipes. You need cash=20 to negotiate for pipes. =20 These are pipes that would probably work well=20 in a home theater organ if you are interested=20 in building one from old parts. Most are in=20 pipe trays. Wooden pedal pipes are standing=20 in racks against the shop wall. =20 I'll be around the workshop for the rest of the=20 month. I'm completing a Schantz console rebuild=20 and enlargement project. =20 Anyone interested? Appreciative offers for the=20 windchest include a cup of coffee, stories about=20 organ building, providing your own strong-arm=20 movers, and anyother negotiable consideration=20 worth about $1.00 in the open market. =20 Dorian Workshops is located in Dallas, Texas. =20 I can be reached via E-mail most of the time, and=20 on the telephone sometime... =20 972-530-7601 (my desk phone; mostly in the mornings) =20 214-498-6431 (Sprint PCS when not at my desk). =20 F. Richard Burt Dorian Organ Workshops 10890 Bekay - Suite 400 Dallas, TX 75238 =20 =20 =20 =2E