DIYAPASON-L Digest #270 - Wednesday, February 28, 2001
 
Re:Some Thoughts on the Spencer blower question
  by <TheGluePot@aol.com>
Re: storing pipe organs?
  by <TheGluePot@aol.com>
Unknown organ player
  by "Bob Loesch" <rrloesch@jps.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Unknown organ player
  by "Jon Calvo" <jcalvo@mail.state.tn.us>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Unknown organ player
  by "Bob Loesch" <rrloesch@jps.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Unknown organ player
  by "Bob Loesch" <rrloesch@jps.net>
How does one re-activate
  by "Leah Smith" <gregsmithandleah@earthlink.net>
 

(back) Subject: Re:Some Thoughts on the Spencer blower question From: <TheGluePot@aol.com> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:13:40 EST   The Spencer Blower with a Century Motor (repulsion induction type) should kick out of the starter winding within just seconds. Anything over 5 = seconds indicates a problem. I would not let a blower continue to run with = anything that keeps the motor from achieving speed quickly which I always expect to = be under 3 seconds. One thing you NEVER do is to operate a blower with the outlet open. A blower works the hardest when it is moving the maximum = amount of air. A tight winding system in an organ should allow the blower to = fill the organ to pressure within 3 seconds. Leaks can add up to produce = enough of a blower load to burn out a motor that is not dual protected for overcurrent and overheating. A blower that is too small will sometimes = take longer than 5 seconds to fill a wind system and this really strains the blower.   If the centrifugal starter switch is not mechanically reliable or is = binding, the motor *must* be looked after. A stuck switch will do serious motor damage and could start a fire from the excessive starting current going on =   and on.   A clamp-on AC ammeter is something useful to check for electrical = problems. When amateurs do the wiring for a blower they often fail to look at the = high starting currents. Wire that is too thin will not pass enough current to = let the blower come up to speed quickly. Bad contacts on a contactor will sometimes not seat well and fail to pass the right starting current. = Either way the electrical problems can be checked with an ammeter and when faults =   are found these *must* be addressed by someone who understands the demands = of high current motor circuits.   How do you test a system for leaks? I go about it backwards. If the = blower has a snood on the intake, I put a plywood board across the inlet with a rubber seal then turn on the blower. If the blower does not jump right up = to speed quickly then either the bearings need work or the starter switch mechanism needs help. For blowers without a snood I use a steel barrel up =   against the blower intake plate. Either way the wind flow is prevented = and the blower motor is operating at essentially no load with only the inertia = of the blades, armature, and shaft to be accounted for.   Lastly, turn the shaft by hand. You should be able to turn over even a = large Spencer by a single hand. Anything more is excessive friction in the bearings. Keep track of spin-down times. I have one 1927 original installation 5hp Spencer that takes a full minute and a half to spin down, =   all the while dragging a leather belt driving a generator. When the time increases by several seconds I just give the grease cups a quarter turn = and the friction goes back down to normal with spin down time rising back up = to 90 seconds.   A well maintained blower should give good wind for 50 years with daily = use!   Al Sefl Who had been known to create a lot of wind himself.................  
(back) Subject: Re: storing pipe organs? From: <TheGluePot@aol.com> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:21:48 EST   In a message dated 2/27/01 6:33:46 AM Pacific Standard Time, Ed_Stauff@avid.com writes:   << 2. An unfinished basement in my (heated) house (floor mostly cement, some dirt) >>   Ed, the best looks to be #2 as long as you put a vapor barrier of plastic sheeting over the floor and put the components on pallets were air can circulate this should be fine, just avoid the dirt (termiteville).   Al Sefl  
(back) Subject: Unknown organ player From: "Bob Loesch" <rrloesch@jps.net> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:50:03 -0800   I have become the owner of a duplex roll player of unknown make, and I'd like to access the collective wisdom of this august forum. It was obviously from a pipe organ, as its control switches are clearly labled:   SW #1 Ped 1-12 Grt 13-41 Sw 42-73 SW #2 Ped 1-24 Grt 25-41 Sw 42-73 SW #3 Ped 1-18 Grt 19-36 Sw [blank. might have been 37-73?] SW #4 Ped 1-24 Grt 25-48 Sw 49-73   This information might be of use to the 'add-a-player' folks who needed to know how the old-time player builders alloted their single tracker-bar player's holes. Also with the duplex player (and its attendant switching mechanism) are = two 73-note relays, one attached to each tracker. The roll motors, roll tracking mechanism, and tracker bars are Autopiano. The electrical = portion of the switching looks like Aeolian (which it might be), and the = mechanical portion of the switching is vacuum operated, as are the roll motors. A photo (the only one, so far, as our weather has been really bad of late) is at http://www.jps.net/rrloesch/Filler_duplexPlayer.jpg The spoolboxes, roll motors, tracking regulators, and their attendant vacuum and electrical switching are mounted in a steel frame which looks like it was built to be mounted horizontally, like the drawer of an Ampico grand. More than this I cannot say, as the former owner didn't know what it was out of. So, What IS it? Any and all information is greatly appreciated. Thanks!     Regards, Bob, in beautiful Lake County, California, USA NAWCC 140818 http://www.jps.net/rrloesch alternate mailto:cuckoobob@eudoramail.com    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Unknown organ player From: "Jon Calvo" <jcalvo@mail.state.tn.us> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 14:59:51 -0600   ** For Your Eyes Only ** ** High Priority **   I am giving my own personal opinion but do you know that you have the = whole player unit there seems to be quite a bit of things that need to be = there that are missing , switching , call button box , etc . or have I = over looked thing that are there=20   >>> rrloesch@jps.net 02/28/01 02:50PM >>> I have become the owner of a duplex roll player of unknown make, and I'd like to access the collective wisdom of this august forum. It was obviously from a pipe organ, as its control switches are clearly labled:=20=     SW #1 Ped 1-12 Grt 13-41 Sw 42-73 SW #2 Ped 1-24 Grt 25-41 Sw 42-73 SW #3 Ped 1-18 Grt 19-36 Sw [blank. might have been 37-73?] SW #4 Ped 1-24 Grt 25-48 Sw 49-73   This information might be of use to the 'add-a-player' folks who needed to know how the old-time player builders alloted their single tracker-bar player's holes. Also with the duplex player (and its attendant switching mechanism) are = two 73-note relays, one attached to each tracker. The roll motors, roll tracking mechanism, and tracker bars are Autopiano. The electrical = portion of the switching looks like Aeolian (which it might be), and the mechanical=   portion of the switching is vacuum operated, as are the roll motors. A photo (the only one, so far, as our weather has been really bad of late) is at http://www.jps.net/rrloesch/Filler_duplexPlayer.jpg=20 The spoolboxes, roll motors, tracking regulators, and their attendant vacuum and electrical switching are mounted in a steel frame which looks like it was built to be mounted horizontally, like the drawer of an Ampico grand. More than this I cannot say, as the former owner didn't know what it was out of. =20 So, What IS it? Any and all information is greatly appreciated. Thanks!     Regards, Bob, in beautiful Lake County, California, USA=20 NAWCC 140818 http://www.jps.net/rrloesch=20 alternate mailto:cuckoobob@eudoramail.com=20     DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own=20 Residence Pipe Organs. HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org=20 List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org=20 Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org=20      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Unknown organ player From: "Bob Loesch" <rrloesch@jps.net> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:49:21 -0800   At 14:59 02/28/2001 -0600, Jon Calvo wrote: >I am giving my own personal opinion but do you know that you have the = whole >player unit there seems to be quite a bit of things that need to be there that >are missing , switching , call button box , etc . or have I over looked = thing >that are there.   Obviously, it's not complete! I'm going to use it to replace the roll player which was removed from my Robert Morton pit organ. The console's switching is intact, as are most of the console controls, so all I needed was the spoolbox and associated parts.   But the question remains: Who built it?           Regards, Bob, in beautiful Lake County, California, USA NAWCC 140818 http://www.jps.net/rrloesch alternate mailto:cuckoobob@eudoramail.com    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Unknown organ player From: "Bob Loesch" <rrloesch@jps.net> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:49:21 -0800   At 14:59 02/28/2001 -0600, Jon Calvo wrote: >I am giving my own personal opinion but do you know that you have the = whole >player unit there seems to be quite a bit of things that need to be there that >are missing , switching , call button box , etc . or have I over looked = thing >that are there.   Obviously, it's not complete! I'm going to use it to replace the roll player which was removed from my Robert Morton pit organ. The console's switching is intact, as are most of the console controls, so all I needed was the spoolbox and associated parts.   But the question remains: Who built it?           Regards, Bob, in beautiful Lake County, California, USA NAWCC 140818 http://www.jps.net/rrloesch alternate mailto:cuckoobob@eudoramail.com    
(back) Subject: How does one re-activate From: "Leah Smith" <gregsmithandleah@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 21:07:46 -0800   Hello...could you let me know how to re-activate my subscription to this list?????? Many Thanks to whomever responds... Greg