DIYAPASON-L Digest #633 - Thursday, August 29, 2002
 
Re: [Residence Organs]  Thanks for the help
  by "Drew Taylor" <drewt@loritsu.com>
 

(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Thanks for the help From: "Drew Taylor" <drewt@loritsu.com> Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 12:57:13 -0400   A while back I aquired a large 3 or 4 rank windchest packed full of those = Klann valves. My plan was to remove a few and reinstall them on a new chest I = had built for a flute, which I did. Here are a few things to watchout for:   The valves work okay, but have given me much more trouble than the wicks/reisner/peterson etc direct pallets I have. First of all, I should = have just used the old windchest with the valves already installed. The valve = seat sat on a cork gasket which did a good job of sealing between the valve = seat and the topboard.   When I reinstalled the valves into the new chest, the cork rings had dried = and stuck to the topboard, breaking up when i removed the valves. I had to = sand off all the old cork flakes, the seal was still okay (no ciphers) but not = nearly as good. Next time however I will purchase or try to purchase replacement = cork gaskets.   Also the armature is easy to bend off, causing clickiness and/or ciphers = during operation. And probably the most annoying part to me is the leads which = tend to snap off from the coil forcing me to resolder the lead from the coil.   Once these valves get installed and are fine-tuned they tend to work just = as well as the other makes I have. I can't speak about the long-term = operation since I have only had them installed for 6 months or so.   P.S. Do your valves have the Klann logo and part number written on the = coil wrapper? If they don't I can send along the part number if you are = requesting more information from Klann.     -Drew                 8/29/02 00:30:01, "Residence Organ List" <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> wrote:   >DIYAPASON-L Digest #632 - Wednesday, August 28, 2002 > > Thanks for the help > by <lcollins@premiermeansbusiness.com> > Re: [Residence Organs] Thanks for the help > by <tmbovard@earthlink.net> > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Subject: Thanks for the help >From: <lcollins@premiermeansbusiness.com> >Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 17:35:30 -0500 > >Hi List Folk > >Thanks for the help and advice with those "different" direct electric >magnets. I checked Klann and kimber-Allen web pages and find some vaguely >similar assemblys but not a direct replacement. After looking at them = more >closely, I see where they could be troublesome. Noticed some corrosion = on >the valve seat formed in the metal base that could be trouble and, sure >enough, some of the armatures do not move as freely as they ought in = their >plastic bearing.I'll replace any with Reisner or Wicks as they need it. > >There are two or three that have already been replaced at some time with >what looks like Wicks valves. The leather/felt pad just closes on the = hole >in the board---they should have some type of valve seat shouldn't they ? > >thanks for the help > >Lloyd Collins > > > > > > > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Thanks for the help >From: <tmbovard@earthlink.net> >Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 19:10:48 -0500 > >At 05:35 PM 8/28/2002 -0500, you wrote: >>There are two or three that have already been replaced at some time with >>what looks like Wicks valves. The leather/felt pad just closes on the = hole >>in the board---they should have some type of valve seat shouldn't they ? > >Hi, Lloyd! > >Original Wicks valves in older chests will usually have a valve seat -- a =   >turned wooden button sort of thing, glued to the underside of the = toeboard >around the toehole, against which the valve comes to rest. At some = point, >Wicks abandoned the usage of the valve seats, and their newer work has = the >same leather valve face seating directly against the flat underside of = the >toeboard (as, in fact, most other electric chests I've seen, and as you = are >describing). > >As long as the armature gap is maintained at a correct size to allow the >valve to operate, either method will work equally well. (assuming that = the >underside of the toehole is bored cleanly in a flat surface, of course!) > >Remember that most electric pipe valve units do not have to actually open =   >very far to allow copious wind to the toehole -- if the valve seat moves >away from the toeboard - at all - when the magnet is energized, it's >probably enough opening for all but the biggest toeholes. Magnets that = are >gapped too widely can act strange -- sometimes slow or irregular to open, =   >sometimes slow to close, sometimes wanting to physically bounce back and >forth (note: this is not so-called "valve bounce", which is an electrical =   >phenomonon* ). Over-wide armatures will also require more electric = current >to work reliably. > >Good luck, and happy valve-adjusting! <g> > >Tim Bovard >Little Rock AR > >*many old electric-action organs with non-solid-state relay equipment may =   >be heard to have a mild case of electrical valve bounce (the "wiccups" ><lol>), if one listens closely... > >PS -- additional hint: if/when you ever have an older magnet out for >service, or if you replace one with another used unit, do yourself a = favor >and add a small drop of light oil to the hinge pin before putting it all >back together. They often will like that.... ;-) > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >End of DIYAPASON-L Digest > >DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own = Residence Pipe Organs. >HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org >List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > >