DIYAPASON-L Digest #634 - Sunday, September 1, 2002
 
Home Organ Project Starts
  by "Tony Newnham" <organist@tsnp.fsnet.co.uk>
Re: Home Organ Project Starts
  by "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com>
RE: [Residence Organs]  Home Organ Project Starts
  by "ATOS" <atos@stirlingprop.com>
RE: [Residence Organs]  Home Organ Project Starts
  by "Jane and Dave Whitmore" <JDWhitmore@worldnet.att.net>
 

(back) Subject: Home Organ Project Starts From: "Tony Newnham" <organist@tsnp.fsnet.co.uk> Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 09:32:29 +0100   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0027_01C2519A.7DBF55E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Hi all   Friday I dismantled and moved a small pipe organ from a church that had = =3D no further use for it. The aim was to re-assemble it, with some mods. =3D to casework and off-note chests, as a home practice organ.   However, there are some problems that have come to light in the course =3D of dismantling.   There is no building frame - reservoir and windchest turned out to be =3D hung off rails screwed to the inside of the case sides, the keyboard and = =3D pedal coupler assembly were on transverse rails half-lapped into the =3D front and back of the case. (The case sides are panelled - similar =3D construction and material thickness to doors!). The organ was "rebuilt" = =3D about 30 years ago, and since then, a number of vital screws holding the = =3D thing together had either loosened, or split the surrounding woodwork! = =3D Once the front access panels were removed, the whole assembly felt very = =3D flimsy.   Some of the wooden pipes have been "repaired" with insulating tape! I =3D haven't had time yet to investigate closely.   Also, a lot of vital screws had worked loose for no apparent reason - =3D including those holding down upper boards at bass and treble ends for =3D off-notes. (These had to be removed to get to the screws holding the =3D windchest to the case. In fact, there were only 2 screws in the whole =3D instrument that were anything like tight!   As I see it, I have 3 options:- 1) make a proper building frame and reassemble more or less "as is", =3D keeping the tracker action.   2) convert to direct electric action, using lever-arm magnets (which I =3D have) on the pull-downs of the present chest.   3) scrap the chest and make a DE unit chest using the magnets.   The metal pipework seems to be in reasonable condition, although some of = =3D the larger pipes have taken a few knocks and have bent ears.   Spec. before dismantling:-   1 Manual C-g3, pedal pull-downs; Open Diapason Bass (TC) Open Diapason Treble Stopped Diapason Bass & Treble (treble is actually Clarabella pipes) Principal Bass & Treble.   I will probably put a 2ft flute in place of the Open Diap.   Any comments/suggestions welcome.   Every Blessing   Tony   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0027_01C2519A.7DBF55E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Diso-8859-1"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3D3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Hi all</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Friday&nbsp;I dismantled and =3D moved&nbsp;a small=3D20 pipe organ from a church that had no further use for it.&nbsp; The aim =3D was to=3D20 re-assemble it, with some mods. to casework and off-note chests, as a =3D home=3D20 practice organ.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>However, there are some problems that = =3D have come to=3D20 light in the course of dismantling.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>There is no building frame - = reservoir =3D and=3D20 windchest turned out to be hung off rails screwed to the inside of the =3D case=3D20 sides, the keyboard and pedal coupler assembly were on transverse = rails=3D20 half-lapped into the front and back of the case.&nbsp; (The case sides =3D are=3D20 panelled - similar construction and material thickness to doors!).&nbsp; = =3D The=3D20 organ was "rebuilt" about 30 years ago, and since then, a number of =3D vital screws=3D20 holding the thing together had either loosened, or split the surrounding = =3D   woodwork!&nbsp; Once the front access panels were removed, the whole =3D assembly=3D20 felt very flimsy.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Some of the wooden pipes have been = =3D "repaired" with=3D20 insulating tape!&nbsp; I haven't had time yet to investigate=3D20 closely.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Also, a lot of vital screws had = worked =3D loose for no=3D20 apparent reason - including those holding down upper boards at bass and = =3D treble=3D20 ends for off-notes.&nbsp; (These had to be removed to get to the screws = =3D holding=3D20 the windchest to the case.&nbsp; In fact, there were only 2 screws in =3D the whole=3D20 instrument that were anything like tight!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>As I see it, I have 3 =3D options:-</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>1) make a proper building frame and = =3D reassemble more=3D20 or less "as is", keeping the tracker action.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>2) convert to direct electric action, = =3D using=3D20 lever-arm magnets (which I have) on the pull-downs of the present=3D20 chest.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>3) scrap the chest and make a DE unit = =3D chest using=3D20 the magnets.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>The metal pipework seems to be in =3D reasonable=3D20 condition, although some of the larger pipes have taken a few knocks and = =3D have=3D20 bent ears.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Spec. before = dismantling:-</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>1 Manual C-g3, pedal =3D pull-downs;</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Open Diapason Bass (TC)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Open Diapason Treble</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Stopped Diapason Bass &amp; Treble = =3D (treble is=3D20 actually Clarabella pipes)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Principal Bass &amp; =3D Treble.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>I will probably put a 2ft flute in = =3D place of the=3D20 Open Diap.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Any comments/suggestions =3D welcome.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Every Blessing</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial =3D size=3D3D2>Tony</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0027_01C2519A.7DBF55E0--    
(back) Subject: Re: Home Organ Project Starts From: "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 07:53:43 -0400   Tony Newnham <organist@tsnp.fsnet.co.uk> described a "building frame-less" little instrument. From his description, I'd be tempted to at least try building a new frame, even if only a "temporary" one (that's a dangerous word!).   Such a project should be much easier than fitting the chest will = pull-downs or building a new chest, and in either case (so to speak) there would *still* be the question of how to support the chest.   The present casework would at least serve as a pattern for making a new frame, and that would probably allow the existing trackers and other = action parts to be re-used. A new casework, though, might have to be built, or perhaps the old one could be suitably modified to fit around the new = frame.   Good luck, Tony!   Larry Chace      
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] Home Organ Project Starts From: "ATOS" <atos@stirlingprop.com> Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 07:24:54 -0500   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0002_01C25188.AAD541A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   If the historical value of the organ warrants keeping it as-is, the = woodwork problems you describe can usually be remedied. For example, damaged screw holes can be repaired by using the dust from a wood sander mixed with a = good wood glue. In cases where the holes are just oversized from the screw = being removed then reinserted, this can be fixed by pumping a little superglue into the hole. It will harden the wood and swell the wood fibers up enough that you can reinsert the screw and have it bind tightly.   As for the wood pipes, these would require examination, but I have seen cracked wood pipes glued with success. It is best to get a hypodermic syringe and pump glue into the crack and then clamp the crack closed. The trick here is to make sure the pipe is air-tight throughout the entire length of the air column. Any leaks will effectively shorten the pipe and make it impossible to tune. Your metal pipes can be straightened by inserting wood dowels into the pipes and forcing the dents out. I keep a complete set of dowels from 1/8' to 2" diameter for that purpose. Make = sure not to touch the languids when you force the dowel in because that can do serious damage to the voicing. Also be sure to use an appropriately sized dowel so you do not split the pipe along the existing solder seam.   Without seeing the actual installation, I can't really advise whether you need to build a frame. Usually a good cabinet maker can help you make a determination as to whether a complete frame, or just spot reinforcement = of the existing cabinet would be to your advantage. This sounds like a = project that would be of interest to a lot of people. If you can get some good photos along the way, I will be happy to display your progress on a = website I operate for that purpose. We are constantly building a knowledge base = and library for mainly theatre organ projects, but these problems are = universal to all organs. The site is http://atos.stirlingprop.com/knowbase.htm if = you want to take a look.   Good luck whichever way you decide to go.   -----Original Message----- From: DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org [mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org]On Behalf = Of Tony Newnham Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 3:32 AM To: Residence Organ List; organchat@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Residence Organs] Home Organ Project Starts     Hi all   Friday I dismantled and moved a small pipe organ from a church that had = no further use for it. The aim was to re-assemble it, with some mods. to casework and off-note chests, as a home practice organ.   However, there are some problems that have come to light in the course = of dismantling.   There is no building frame - reservoir and windchest turned out to be = hung off rails screwed to the inside of the case sides, the keyboard and pedal coupler assembly were on transverse rails half-lapped into the front and back of the case. (The case sides are panelled - similar construction and material thickness to doors!). The organ was "rebuilt" about 30 years = ago, and since then, a number of vital screws holding the thing together had either loosened, or split the surrounding woodwork! Once the front access panels were removed, the whole assembly felt very flimsy.   Some of the wooden pipes have been "repaired" with insulating tape! I haven't had time yet to investigate closely.   Also, a lot of vital screws had worked loose for no apparent reason - including those holding down upper boards at bass and treble ends for off-notes. (These had to be removed to get to the screws holding the windchest to the case. In fact, there were only 2 screws in the whole instrument that were anything like tight!   As I see it, I have 3 options:- 1) make a proper building frame and reassemble more or less "as is", keeping the tracker action.   2) convert to direct electric action, using lever-arm magnets (which I have) on the pull-downs of the present chest.   3) scrap the chest and make a DE unit chest using the magnets.   The metal pipework seems to be in reasonable condition, although some of the larger pipes have taken a few knocks and have bent ears.   Spec. before dismantling:-   1 Manual C-g3, pedal pull-downs; Open Diapason Bass (TC) Open Diapason Treble Stopped Diapason Bass & Treble (treble is actually Clarabella pipes) Principal Bass & Treble.   I will probably put a 2ft flute in place of the Open Diap.   Any comments/suggestions welcome.   Every Blessing   Tony   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0002_01C25188.AAD541A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Diso-8859-1"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3D3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D size=3D3D2>If the=3D20 historical value of the organ warrants keeping it as-is, the woodwork =3D problems=3D20 you describe can usually be remedied. For example, damaged screw holes =3D can be=3D20 repaired by using the dust from a wood sander mixed with a good wood =3D glue. In=3D20 cases where the holes are just oversized from the screw being removed =3D then=3D20 reinserted, this can be fixed by pumping a little superglue into the =3D hole. It=3D20 will harden the wood and swell the wood fibers up enough that you can =3D reinsert=3D20 the screw and have it bind tightly.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D   size=3D3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D size=3D3D2>As for=3D20 the wood pipes, these would require examination, but I have seen cracked = =3D wood=3D20 pipes glued with success. It is&nbsp;best to get a hypodermic syringe =3D and pump=3D20 glue into the crack and then clamp the crack closed. The trick here is =3D to make=3D20 sure the pipe is air-tight throughout the entire length of the air =3D column. Any=3D20 leaks will effectively shorten the pipe and make it impossible to tune. = =3D Your=3D20 metal pipes can be straightened by inserting wood dowels into the pipes = =3D and=3D20 forcing the dents out. I keep a complete set of dowels from 1/8' to 2" =3D diameter=3D20 for that purpose. Make sure not to touch the languids when you force the = =3D dowel=3D20 in because that can do serious damage to the voicing. Also be sure to =3D use an=3D20 appropriately sized dowel so you do not split the pipe along the =3D existing&nbsp;=3D20 solder seam.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D   size=3D3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D   size=3D3D2>Without seeing the actual installation, I can't really advise = =3D whether you=3D20 need to build a frame. Usually a good cabinet maker can help you make = a=3D20 determination as to whether a complete frame, or just spot reinforcement = =3D of the=3D20 existing cabinet would be to your advantage. &nbsp;This sounds like a =3D project=3D20 that would be of interest to a lot of people. If you can get some good =3D photos=3D20 along the way, I will be happy to display your progress on a website I =3D operate=3D20 for that purpose. We&nbsp;are constantly building a knowledge base and =3D library=3D20 for mainly theatre organ projects, but these problems are universal to =3D all=3D20 organs. The site is <A=3D20 href=3D3D"http://atos.stirlingprop.com/knowbase.htm">http://atos.stirlingpr= =3D op.com/knowbase.htm</A>=3D20 if you want to take a look. </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D   size=3D3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D size=3D3D2>Good=3D20 luck whichever way you decide to go.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002>&nbsp;</SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D580190312-01092002></SPAN><FONT face=3D3DTahoma=3D20 size=3D3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =3D DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org=3D20 [mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Tony=3D20 Newnham<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, September 01, 2002 3:32 AM<BR><B>To:</B> = =3D   Residence Organ List; organchat@yahoogroups.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> =3D [Residence=3D20 Organs] Home Organ Project Starts<BR><BR></DIV></FONT> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3D3Dltr style=3D3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Hi all</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Friday&nbsp;I dismantled and =3D moved&nbsp;a small=3D20 pipe organ from a church that had no further use for it.&nbsp; The aim = =3D was to=3D20 re-assemble it, with some mods. to casework and off-note chests, as a = =3D home=3D20 practice organ.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>However, there are some problems = that =3D have come=3D20 to light in the course of dismantling.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>There is no building frame - =3D reservoir and=3D20 windchest turned out to be hung off rails screwed to the inside of the = =3D case=3D20 sides, the keyboard and pedal coupler assembly were on transverse =3D rails=3D20 half-lapped into the front and back of the case.&nbsp; (The case sides = =3D are=3D20 panelled - similar construction and material thickness to =3D doors!).&nbsp; The=3D20 organ was "rebuilt" about 30 years ago, and since then, a number of =3D vital=3D20 screws holding the thing together had either loosened, or split the=3D20 surrounding woodwork!&nbsp; Once the front access panels were removed, = =3D the=3D20 whole assembly felt very flimsy.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Some of the wooden pipes have been = =3D "repaired"=3D20 with insulating tape!&nbsp; I haven't had time yet to investigate=3D20 closely.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Also, a lot of vital screws had =3D worked loose for=3D20 no apparent reason - including those holding down upper boards at bass = =3D and=3D20 treble ends for off-notes.&nbsp; (These had to be removed to get to =3D the screws=3D20 holding the windchest to the case.&nbsp; In fact, there were only 2 =3D screws in=3D20 the whole instrument that were anything like tight!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>As I see it, I have 3 =3D options:-</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>1) make a proper building frame and = =3D reassemble=3D20 more or less "as is", keeping the tracker action.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>2) convert to direct electric = action, =3D using=3D20 lever-arm magnets (which I have) on the pull-downs of the present=3D20 chest.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>3) scrap the chest and make a DE = unit =3D chest using=3D20 the magnets.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>The metal pipework seems to be in = =3D reasonable=3D20 condition, although some of the larger pipes have taken a few knocks =3D and have=3D20 bent ears.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Spec. before =3D dismantling:-</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>1 Manual C-g3, pedal =3D pull-downs;</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Open Diapason Bass = (TC)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Open Diapason Treble</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Stopped Diapason Bass &amp; Treble =3D (treble is=3D20 actually Clarabella pipes)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Principal Bass &amp; =3D Treble.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>I will probably put a 2ft flute in = =3D place of the=3D20 Open Diap.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Any comments/suggestions =3D welcome.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Every Blessing</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial=3D20 size=3D3D2>Tony</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0002_01C25188.AAD541A0--    
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] Home Organ Project Starts From: "Jane and Dave Whitmore" <JDWhitmore@worldnet.att.net> Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 19:40:07 -0400   <html> At 07:24 AM 9/1/02 -0500, ATOS wrote:<br> <font face=3D"arial" size=3D2 color=3D"#0000FF"><blockquote type=3Dcite = cite>If the historical value of the organ warrants keeping it as-is, the woodwork problems you describe can usually be remedied. For example, damaged screw holes can be repaired by using the dust from a wood sander mixed with a good wood glue. In cases where the holes are just oversized from the screw being removed then reinserted, this can be fixed by pumping a little superglue into the hole. It will harden the wood and swell the wood fibers up enough that you can reinsert the screw and have it bind tightly.</font></blockquote><br> <font size=3D2>I've had very good luck with a little &quot;system&quot; from Woodworker's Warehouse. It consists of a conical drill bit and cone shaped hard wood plugs. First you use the drill to make a conical hole centered, of course, on the old loose screw hole. Then put in some wood glue and tap in the plug. Let the glue dry thoroughly and then use a flat saw to cut off the surplus plug material. Sand as needed.<br> <br> A new pilot hole is drilled in the center of your new plug and you're ready to put in the screw. This technique holds screws really well and there's less fuss than with the sawdust technique (which I used to use). <br> <br> Good luck!<br> <br> Dave in Vermont</font></html>