DIYAPASON-L Digest #654 - Monday, September 23, 2002
 
Wiring
  by "Pieter Smit" <pieter@cadence-engineering.co.za>
I need used  Electric Magnets
  by "danielwh1" <danielwh1@ns.sympatico.ca>
Cables and such
  by "Drew Taylor" <drewt@loritsu.com>
Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such
  by "Steven Durham" <sdurham11@attbi.com>
Blower Question
  by <Kzimmer0817@aol.com>
Address needed
  by <Kzimmer0817@aol.com>
RE: [Residence Organs]  Blower Question
  by "ATOS" <atos@stirlingprop.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Cables and such
  by "randy" <rnewman@shop.rutgers.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Cables and such
  by "Jan S. Van Der Stad" <dorian@nac.net>
 

(back) Subject: Wiring From: "Pieter Smit" <pieter@cadence-engineering.co.za> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 14:05:01 +0200   Not knowing what the wiring regulations state in all countries of the = world, I do not know of the following would be acceptable.   I have used the flat ribbon cable as used in computers (connecting the IDE ports to disk drives or motherboard to floppy / stiffy drive), with no ill effects. These can be purchased in reels and connectors are really a matter of putting the connector around the cable and pressing it close in = a vice. The connector pins on the cable side snaps through the insulation = and connects to the wire inside. Connector pairs (male / female) should be readily available from computer, radio and electronics shops. Since the cable is flat and is marked on one side, no tracing of wires is necessary = - they are all there in sequence. Remember however that some connectors connect to every second wire on one row of pins, and to the others at the next row! Ribbon cables can be obtained in various widths (number of wires).   Important things to remember:   1. The cable has been designed for smallish types of current (quite = capable of handling small pallet type of electromagnets, but not large electromagnets such as for slider chests) - so check the current needed by the electromagnets before using this system. You may need to check the current per square millimeter (or inch) allowed in your country / state = and see if the cable conductors are thick enough as required by your local regulations. These unfortunately differ all over the world - some authorities are a lot more stringent that really required.   2. Always use more than one wire in the ribbon (say 5 or so, or even = more) for the earth return if a seperate earth return is not used. More than = one electromagnet may be commanded on in the ribbon and one do not want to overload the earth conductor(s)!   Happy wiring.   Pieter Smit pieter@cadence-engineering.co.za    
(back) Subject: I need used Electric Magnets From: "danielwh1" <danielwh1@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 17:17:55 -0300   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_000A_01C26325.27CF6C00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   I am posting this email here as I need 15 Direct Action Magnets to =3D complete my Vox Humana Instalation I have the rest hooked up , but now I need to hook up the last 15 pipes = =3D of the bottom Octave +3 =3D3D15 I live in Canada and am working with very limited Canadian money Please anyone who may have some used working spares around Email me to = =3D the following email address and tell me what you want for them and I =3D will let you know if I can aford it.   Sincerely : Daniel 2000 E.P. Biggs Fellow   danielwh1@ns.sympatico.ca ------=3D_NextPart_000_000A_01C26325.27CF6C00 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Diso-8859-1"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3D3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>I am posting this email here as I = need =3D 15 Direct=3D20 Action Magnets to complete my Vox Humana Instalation</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>&nbsp;I have the rest hooked up , but = =3D now I need to=3D20 hook up the last 15 pipes of the bottom Octave +3 =3D3D15</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>&nbsp;I live in Canada&nbsp; and am = =3D working with=3D20 very limited Canadian money</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>Please anyone who may have some&nbsp; = =3D used working=3D20 spares around Email me to the following email address&nbsp; and tell me = =3D what you=3D20 want for them and I will let you know if I can aford it.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial=3D20 size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs= =3D p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=3D20 Sincerely :</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; = &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=3D20 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=3D20 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=3D20 Daniel</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>2000 E.P. Biggs Fellow</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2><A=3D20 href=3D3D"mailto:danielwh1@ns.sympatico.ca">danielwh1@ns.sympatico.ca</A></= =3D FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3DArial size=3D3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_000A_01C26325.27CF6C00--    
(back) Subject: Cables and such From: "Drew Taylor" <drewt@loritsu.com> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 17:57:01 -0400   Speaking of chest wiring, etc. Does anyone know of a good supplier for 25 = or 50 pair cable? Crusing around town never got me much and most of the telecom = stores on the internet want a good deal of money and won't waste time selling = under 250', which also can cost a lot to ship. Or, would anyone on the list have any excess 25/50pr cable that's nagging = to be tossed.     -Drew          
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such From: "Steven Durham" <sdurham11@attbi.com> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:12:03 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)   Drew:   I used to agonize trying to find used or new telephone cable for organ projects. The best thing is to buy new cable from Organ Supply Industries. It is fast, easy and you'll get exactly what you need. Their selection of telephone cable is impressive. They even have a custom 61 note cable! It is worth paying the extra money and not having the hassle at the end of the day     The days of finding tons of used and surplus telephone cable are over. So much of it is recycled. I used to get huge spools of 25 and 50 pair cable for almost nothing. We had a GTE telephone surplus here in Portland several years ago and you could go in there and pick up punch blocks, wire, and wire connectors for pennies on the dollar. Not anymore!   Steven   -------Original Message-------   From: Residence Organ List Date: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:59:32 PM To: Residence Organ List Subject: [Residence Organs] Cables and such   Speaking of chest wiring, etc. Does anyone know of a good supplier for 25 or 50 pair cable? Crusing around town never got me much and most of the telecom stores on the internet want a good deal of money and won't waste time selling under   250', which also can cost a lot to ship. Or, would anyone on the list have any excess 25/50pr cable that's nagging to be tossed.     -Drew           DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own Residence Pipe Organs. HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org    
(back) Subject: Blower Question From: <Kzimmer0817@aol.com> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 20:40:42 EDT     --part1_12c.180fd599.2ac10e8a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   I've been reading thru the archives. I found numerous postings on the = proper way to wire a blower.   As I told y'all earlier, I just purchased a 1926 Austin 10 rank that had = been installed around the walls of a garage since 1972. This second owner had purchased brand new Durst Pitman chests in 1972.   Anyway, I have the organ piled up in my basement.   I'm a little confused after reading all the postings about the proper way = to wire up a blower. This blower appeared to simply be connected to a small fuse box bolted to the underside of a workbench - one of those gambling machine types in which you pull the arm to turn it on/off.   Anyway, the report on the organ said that it was a 220V single phase = blower. I tho't all I'd have to do is run a 220 v wire from my main panel to the basement.   1. Here's the information from the plate on the blower: Spencer Steel Orgoblo SN 19058 Wind 5 (I was told the organ was on 5" wind).   2. The motor is mounted in line with the shaft. There's a hefty pully = that wasn't attached to anything. Here's the info on the motor metal plate on = the side of the motor. The values in brackets "[ ]" are what's engraved on = the little square after the item: Induction Motor Number [9295] Type [ST] HP [2] - apparently 2 hp Speed [1200] guess this means 1200 rpm Phase [3] - this I'm not sure. It's kinda scratched, but looks like a = "3", but the info I got said "single phase". Cycles [60] - apparently 60 Hz Volts [220] - duh Temp Rise C [40] - I'm assuming 40 degrees celsius, not sure what it = means F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really difficult to read, thus to figure = out.   There's no kind of "box" attached to the motor to contain any capacitors, heaters, starters, or whatever that other stuff y'all talked about then.   I found something very interesting with the wires. Dad had cut the power cable about 12" out from the motor. There were cut ends of three wires: a =   black, white, and red. So far it's pretty straightforward. But...... the individual wires thickened as they approached the side of the motor. I started unwrapping black cloth tape and was surprised to find that each of =   the three cables consisted of multistranded gray wire. The colored wire I =   mentioned was simply a 2" remnant of colored heavy guage wire that had = been soldered to the end of the stranded cable, then wrapped with the tape. Had =   dad cut the cable an inch shorter, all I'd have would be three identical = sets of stranded wire coming from the motor. Does this sound kosher? (I'm not =   Jewish, tho).   Anyway, from the postings of 2001, it sounds like this is a little more complicated than simply wiring up a 220V outlet box. Perhaps the motor = was modified from its original configuration. It has worked well in this = man's garage since 1972. Anyway, any thoughts?   Thanks, Keith     --part1_12c.180fd599.2ac10e8a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" = FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I've been reading thru the archives.&nbsp; I = found numerous postings on the proper way to wire a blower.<BR> <BR> As I told y'all earlier, I just purchased a 1926 Austin 10 rank that had = been installed around the walls of a garage since 1972.&nbsp; This second = owner had purchased brand new Durst Pitman chests in 1972.<BR> <BR> Anyway, I have the organ piled up in my basement.<BR> <BR> I'm a little confused after reading all the postings about the proper way = to wire up a blower.&nbsp; This blower appeared to simply be connected to = a small fuse box bolted to the underside of a workbench - one of those = gambling machine types in which you pull the arm to turn it on/off.<BR> <BR> Anyway, the report on the organ said that it was a 220V single phase = blower.&nbsp; I tho't all I'd have to do is run a 220 v wire from my main = panel to the basement.<BR> <BR> 1.&nbsp; Here's the information from the plate on the blower:<BR> Spencer Steel Orgoblo<BR> SN&nbsp; 19058<BR> Wind 5 (I was told the organ was on 5" wind).<BR> <BR> 2.&nbsp; The motor is mounted in line with the shaft.&nbsp; There's a = hefty pully that wasn't attached to anything. Here's the info on the motor = metal plate on the side of the motor.&nbsp; The values in brackets "[ ]" = are what's engraved on the little square after the item:<BR> Induction Motor<BR> Number&nbsp; [9295]<BR> Type&nbsp;&nbsp; [ST]<BR> HP [2]&nbsp; - apparently 2 hp<BR> Speed&nbsp; [1200]&nbsp; guess this means 1200 rpm<BR> Phase [3] - this I'm not sure.&nbsp; It's kinda scratched, but looks like = a "3", but the info I got said "single phase".<BR> Cycles [60]&nbsp; - apparently 60 Hz<BR> Volts [220]&nbsp; - duh<BR> Temp Rise C [40]&nbsp; - I'm assuming 40 degrees celsius, not sure what it = means<BR> F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really difficult to read, thus to figure = out.<BR> <BR> There's no kind of "box" attached to the motor to contain any capacitors, = heaters, starters, or whatever that other stuff y'all talked about = then.<BR> <BR> I found something very interesting with the wires.&nbsp; Dad had cut the = power cable about 12" out from the motor.&nbsp; There were cut ends of = three wires: a black, white, and red. So far it's pretty = straightforward.&nbsp; But...... the individual wires thickened as they = approached the side of the motor.&nbsp; I started unwrapping black cloth = tape and was surprised to find that each of the three cables consisted of = multistranded gray wire.&nbsp; The colored wire I mentioned was simply a = 2" remnant of colored heavy guage wire that had been soldered to the end = of the stranded cable, then wrapped with the tape. Had dad cut the cable = an inch shorter, all I'd have would be three identical sets of stranded = wire coming from the motor.&nbsp;&nbsp; Does this sound kosher? (I'm not = Jewish, tho).<BR> <BR> Anyway, from the postings of 2001, it sounds like this is a little more = complicated than simply wiring up a 220V outlet box.&nbsp; Perhaps the = motor was modified from its original configuration.&nbsp; It has worked = well in this man's garage since 1972.&nbsp; Anyway, any thoughts?<BR> <BR> Thanks,<BR> Keith<BR> <BR> </FONT></HTML> --part1_12c.180fd599.2ac10e8a_boundary--  
(back) Subject: Address needed From: <Kzimmer0817@aol.com> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 20:57:29 EDT     --part1_170.1440bcca.2ac11279_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   I apologize if this is off topic. If it is, please tell me how I should = pose a question like this in the future.   As I was reading postings in the archives, a message from Kelvin Smith = piqued my interest. I wanted to e-mail him a specific question about his posting = on "switching". I've tried to e-mail him at kelvinsmith@untraveledroad.com which is on the "member bios" link, but it has been returned twice. Does somebody have a current e-mail address on him?   Thanks, Keith   --part1_170.1440bcca.2ac11279_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" = FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I apologize if this is off topic.&nbsp; If it = is, please tell me how I should pose a question like this in the = future.<BR> <BR> As I was reading postings in the archives, a message from Kelvin Smith = piqued my interest.&nbsp; I wanted to e-mail him a specific question about = his posting on "switching".&nbsp; I've tried to e-mail him at = kelvinsmith@untraveledroad.com which is on the "member bios" link, but it = has been returned twice.&nbsp; Does somebody have a current e-mail address = on him?&nbsp; <BR> <BR> Thanks,<BR> Keith</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" = SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"> <BR> </FONT></HTML> --part1_170.1440bcca.2ac11279_boundary--  
(back) Subject: RE: [Residence Organs] Blower Question From: "ATOS" <atos@stirlingprop.com> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 22:05:33 -0500   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0006_01C2634D.5692FB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   From what you are describing, it sounds like you do have a 3 phase blower. If you check the table of current draw, based on the National Electrical Code, at http://www.paigewire.com/Specs/430-148.htm you will note that a = 220 volt, 2 hp single-phase motor would have a full-load draw of about 13 = amps. If the wires coming from the motor winding are all the same color, that = also causes me to suspect 3 phase. If you do not have a repulsion (centrifugal) switch on the motor shaft or capacitors, then it is 99.5% sure to be 3 phase. If you check with an ohm meter between the three wires, you should measure conductivity between any two wires. That would prove it.   Three phase motors usually do not have internal over-current protection. = The requirements for connecting a three-phase motor, under the N.E.C., are = that you have a disconnecting means that is capable of breaking all three = phases. It must be located either at the motor or at the fuse box provided the fusebox is within clear sight of the motor. After the disconnecting means, you need to have an over-current device rated for motor service. This = would usually be a magnetic starter with thermal overloads rated to allow the normal motor current plus a small margin of usually 1.0 or 1.15 times the FLA. rating. If the current exceeds the rating of the overloads, the = starter will open and break all three hot legs to the motor. You also indicated = that you had a red, white and black wire on your supply cable. When you re-install your motor, be sure to include a safety ground also. If the = motor shorts internally, the case or frame of the blower could become = electrically charged. A grounding conductor serves as a short for this dangerous = current leakage and should trip the breaker or fuse if it is installed properly.   If your new location does not have three phase supplied by the power company, you can probably convert single phase power to three phase by = using a device called a VFD or Inverter. It is important to have all conditions right if you attempt to do this because you can damage both the motor and the inverter if you do not design correctly. If you need information on this, you can email me privately. I am a licensed electrical contractor = and I will be happy to give you some free pointers to try and get you running.   [John DeMajo] -----Original Message----- From: DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org [mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org]On Behalf = Of Kzimmer0817@aol.com Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 7:41 PM To: diyapason-l@pipechat.org Subject: [Residence Organs] Blower Question     I've been reading thru the archives. I found numerous postings on the proper way to wire a blower.   As I told y'all earlier, I just purchased a 1926 Austin 10 rank that had been installed around the walls of a garage since 1972. This second owner had purchased brand new Durst Pitman chests in 1972.   Anyway, I have the organ piled up in my basement.   I'm a little confused after reading all the postings about the proper = way to wire up a blower. This blower appeared to simply be connected to a = small fuse box bolted to the underside of a workbench - one of those gambling machine types in which you pull the arm to turn it on/off.   Anyway, the report on the organ said that it was a 220V single phase blower. I tho't all I'd have to do is run a 220 v wire from my main panel to the basement.   1. Here's the information from the plate on the blower: Spencer Steel Orgoblo SN 19058 Wind 5 (I was told the organ was on 5" wind).   2. The motor is mounted in line with the shaft. There's a hefty pully that wasn't attached to anything. Here's the info on the motor metal plate on the side of the motor. The values in brackets "[ ]" are what's = engraved on the little square after the item: Induction Motor Number [9295] Type [ST] HP [2] - apparently 2 hp Speed [1200] guess this means 1200 rpm Phase [3] - this I'm not sure. It's kinda scratched, but looks like a "3", but the info I got said "single phase". Cycles [60] - apparently 60 Hz Volts [220] - duh Temp Rise C [40] - I'm assuming 40 degrees celsius, not sure what it means F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really difficult to read, thus to figure out.   There's no kind of "box" attached to the motor to contain any = capacitors, heaters, starters, or whatever that other stuff y'all talked about then.   I found something very interesting with the wires. Dad had cut the = power cable about 12" out from the motor. There were cut ends of three wires: a black, white, and red. So far it's pretty straightforward. But...... the individual wires thickened as they approached the side of the motor. I started unwrapping black cloth tape and was surprised to find that each of the three cables consisted of multistranded gray wire. The colored wire I mentioned was simply a 2" remnant of colored heavy guage wire that had = been soldered to the end of the stranded cable, then wrapped with the tape. Had dad cut the cable an inch shorter, all I'd have would be three identical sets of stranded wire coming from the motor. Does this sound kosher? = (I'm not Jewish, tho).   Anyway, from the postings of 2001, it sounds like this is a little more complicated than simply wiring up a 220V outlet box. Perhaps the motor = was modified from its original configuration. It has worked well in this = man's garage since 1972. Anyway, any thoughts?   Thanks, Keith     ------=3D_NextPart_000_0006_01C2634D.5692FB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Diso-8859-1"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3D3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D430133202-24092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D size=3D3D2>From=3D20 what you are describing, it sounds like you do have a 3 phase blower. If = =3D you=3D20 check the table of current draw, based on the National Electrical Code, = =3D at <A=3D20 href=3D3D"http://www.paigewire.com/Specs/430-148.htm">http://www.paigewire.= =3D com/Specs/430-148.htm</A>&nbsp;you=3D20 will note that a 220 volt, 2 hp&nbsp;single-phase motor would have a =3D full-load=3D20 draw of about 13 amps. If the wires coming from the motor winding are =3D all the=3D20 same color, that also causes me to suspect 3 phase. If you do not have a = =3D   repulsion (centrifugal) switch on the motor shaft or capacitors, then it = =3D   is&nbsp;99.5% sure to be 3 phase. If you check with an ohm meter between = =3D the=3D20 three wires, you should measure conductivity between any two wires. That = =3D would=3D20 prove it. </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D430133202-24092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D   size=3D3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D430133202-24092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D size=3D3D2>Three=3D20 phase motors usually do not have internal over-current protection. = The=3D20 requirements for connecting a three-phase motor, under the N.E.C., are =3D that you=3D20 have a disconnecting means that is capable of breaking all three phases. = =3D It must=3D20 be located either at the motor or at the fuse box provided the fusebox =3D is within=3D20 clear sight of the motor. After the disconnecting means, you need to =3D have an=3D20 over-current device rated for motor service. This would usually be a =3D magnetic=3D20 starter with thermal overloads rated to allow the normal motor current =3D plus a=3D20 small margin of usually 1.0 or 1.15 times the FLA. rating. If the=3D20 current&nbsp;exceeds the rating of the overloads, the starter will open = =3D and=3D20 break all three hot legs to the motor. You also indicated that you had a = =3D red,=3D20 white and black wire on your supply cable. When you re-install your =3D motor, be=3D20 sure to include a safety ground also. If the motor shorts internally, =3D the case=3D20 or frame of the blower&nbsp;could become electrically charged. A =3D grounding=3D20 conductor serves&nbsp; as a short for this dangerous&nbsp;current=3D20 leakage&nbsp;and&nbsp;should trip the breaker or fuse if it is installed = =3D   properly. </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D430133202-24092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D   size=3D3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D430133202-24092002><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff =3D size=3D3D2>If=3D20 your new location does not have three phase supplied by the power =3D company, you=3D20 can probably convert single phase power to three phase by using a device = =3D called=3D20 a VFD or Inverter. It&nbsp;is&nbsp;important to have all conditions =3D right if you=3D20 attempt to do this because you can damage both the motor and the =3D inverter if you=3D20 do not design correctly. &nbsp;If you need information on this, you can = =3D email me=3D20 privately. I am a licensed electrical contractor and I will be happy to = =3D give you=3D20 some free&nbsp;pointers to try and get you running. </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D3D430133202-24092002></SPAN><FONT face=3D3DTahoma><FONT = =3D face=3D3DArial=3D20 color=3D3D#0000ff size=3D3D2></FONT><FONT face=3D3DArial = color=3D3D#0000ff=3D20 size=3D3D2></FONT><BR><FONT size=3D3D2><SPAN =3D class=3D3D430133202-24092002><FONT face=3D3DArial=3D20 color=3D3D#0000ff>[John = DeMajo]&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN>-----Original=3D20 Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org=3D20 [mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org]<B>On Behalf Of=3D20 </B>Kzimmer0817@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, September 23, 2002 = 7:41=3D20 PM<BR><B>To:</B> diyapason-l@pipechat.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> [Residence = =3D Organs]=3D20 Blower Question<BR><BR></FONT></DIV></FONT> <BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=3D3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D3D0 face=3D3DArial = =3D size=3D3D2=3D20 FAMILY=3D3D"SANSSERIF">I've been reading thru the archives.&nbsp; I =3D found numerous=3D20 postings on the proper way to wire a blower.<BR><BR>As I told y'all =3D earlier, I=3D20 just purchased a 1926 Austin 10 rank that had been installed around =3D the walls=3D20 of a garage since 1972.&nbsp; This second owner had purchased brand =3D new Durst=3D20 Pitman chests in 1972.<BR><BR>Anyway, I have the organ piled up in = my=3D20 basement.<BR><BR>I'm a little confused after reading all the postings = =3D about=3D20 the proper way to wire up a blower.&nbsp; This blower appeared to =3D simply be=3D20 connected to a small fuse box bolted to the underside of a workbench - = =3D one of=3D20 those gambling machine types in which you pull the arm to turn it=3D20 on/off.<BR><BR>Anyway, the report on the organ said that it was a 220V = =3D single=3D20 phase blower.&nbsp; I tho't all I'd have to do is run a 220 v wire =3D from my=3D20 main panel to the basement.<BR><BR>1.&nbsp; Here's the information =3D from the=3D20 plate on the blower:<BR>Spencer Steel Orgoblo<BR>SN&nbsp; =3D 19058<BR>Wind 5 (I=3D20 was told the organ was on 5" wind).<BR><BR>2.&nbsp; The motor is =3D mounted in=3D20 line with the shaft.&nbsp; There's a hefty pully that wasn't attached = =3D to=3D20 anything. Here's the info on the motor metal plate on the side of = the=3D20 motor.&nbsp; The values in brackets "[ ]" are what's engraved on the =3D little=3D20 square after the item:<BR>Induction Motor<BR>Number&nbsp;=3D20 [9295]<BR>Type&nbsp;&nbsp; [ST]<BR>HP [2]&nbsp; - apparently 2=3D20 hp<BR>Speed&nbsp; [1200]&nbsp; guess this means 1200 rpm<BR>Phase [3] = =3D - this=3D20 I'm not sure.&nbsp; It's kinda scratched, but looks like a "3", but =3D the info I=3D20 got said "single phase".<BR>Cycles [60]&nbsp; - apparently 60 =3D Hz<BR>Volts=3D20 [220]&nbsp; - duh<BR>Temp Rise C [40]&nbsp; - I'm assuming 40 degrees = =3D celsius,=3D20 not sure what it means<BR>F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really =3D difficult to=3D20 read, thus to figure out.<BR><BR>There's no kind of "box" attached to = =3D the=3D20 motor to contain any capacitors, heaters, starters, or whatever that =3D other=3D20 stuff y'all talked about then.<BR><BR>I found something very =3D interesting with=3D20 the wires.&nbsp; Dad had cut the power cable about 12" out from the=3D20 motor.&nbsp; There were cut ends of three wires: a black, white, and =3D red. So=3D20 far it's pretty straightforward.&nbsp; But...... the individual = wires=3D20 thickened as they approached the side of the motor.&nbsp; I started =3D unwrapping=3D20 black cloth tape and was surprised to find that each of the three =3D cables=3D20 consisted of multistranded gray wire.&nbsp; The colored wire I =3D mentioned was=3D20 simply a 2" remnant of colored heavy guage wire that had been soldered = =3D to the=3D20 end of the stranded cable, then wrapped with the tape. Had dad cut the = =3D cable=3D20 an inch shorter, all I'd have would be three identical sets of =3D stranded wire=3D20 coming from the motor.&nbsp;&nbsp; Does this sound kosher? (I'm not =3D Jewish,=3D20 tho).<BR><BR>Anyway, from the postings of 2001, it sounds like this is = =3D a=3D20 little more complicated than simply wiring up a 220V outlet box.&nbsp; = =3D Perhaps=3D20 the motor was modified from its original configuration.&nbsp; It has =3D worked=3D20 well in this man's garage since 1972.&nbsp; Anyway, any=3D20 =3D thoughts?<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Keith<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BOD= =3D Y></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0006_01C2634D.5692FB60--    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such From: "randy" <rnewman@shop.rutgers.edu> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 23:33:02 -0400   check out cliffords of vermont. i've ordered from them before and they = were great to deal with. they sell quite a bit to the organ industry and if you call you = can request their organ wire catalog. i believe its just a page or two, but = has telephone type cable but with different numbers of pairs just perfect for = organ wiring. their website is:   http://www.cliffordvt.com/   -randy       Drew Taylor wrote:   > Speaking of chest wiring, etc. Does anyone know of a good supplier for = 25 or 50 > pair cable? Crusing around town never got me much and most of the = telecom stores > on the internet want a good deal of money and won't waste time selling = under > 250', which also can cost a lot to ship. > Or, would anyone on the list have any excess 25/50pr cable that's = nagging to be > tossed. > > -Drew > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such From: "Jan S. Van Der Stad" <dorian@nac.net> Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 23:39:19 -0400   Hi, List   I second Randy's advice. They'll take orders for cable from a few hundred feet to several thousand feet- and......I'm told they know about pipe = organs too <grins>.   And another friendly reminder- if it applies to you: be sure you follow = the NEC as far as wiring gauges, etc. are concerned; it will pay off in the = long run.   Best wishes to all with their projects.   Jan S. Van Der Stad     ----- Original Message ----- From: "randy" <rnewman@shop.rutgers.edu> To: "Residence Organ List" <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 11:33 PM Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such     > check out cliffords of vermont. i've ordered from them before and they were great to > deal with. they sell quite a bit to the organ industry and if you call = you can > request their organ wire catalog. i believe its just a page or two, but has > telephone type cable but with different numbers of pairs just perfect = for organ > wiring. their website is: > > http://www.cliffordvt.com/ > > -randy > > > > Drew Taylor wrote: > > > Speaking of chest wiring, etc. Does anyone know of a good supplier for 25 or 50 > > pair cable? Crusing around town never got me much and most of the telecom stores > > on the internet want a good deal of money and won't waste time selling under > > 250', which also can cost a lot to ship. > > Or, would anyone on the list have any excess 25/50pr cable that's nagging to be > > tossed. > > > > -Drew > > > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > > Residence Pipe Organs. > > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > >