DIYAPASON-L Digest #655 - Tuesday, September 24, 2002
 
[Residence Organs]  Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such - guess we're 
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
Blower Question - addition
  by <Kzimmer0817@aol.com>
Blower Question - addition
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpschneider@starband.net>
[Residence Organs]  Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such -  guess we're
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Cables and such
  by <Pipewheezr@aol.com>
 

(back) Subject: [Residence Organs] Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such - guess we're lucky! From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 07:47:24 -0700   aren't we? John     >Drew: > >I used to agonize trying to find used or new telephone cable for organ >projects. The best thing is to buy new cable from Organ Supply = Industries. >It is fast, easy and you'll get exactly what you need. Their selection of >telephone cable is impressive. They even have a custom 61 note cable! It = is >worth paying the extra money and not having the hassle at the end of the = day > > >The days of finding tons of used and surplus telephone cable are over. So >much of it is recycled. I used to get huge spools of 25 and 50 pair cable >for almost nothing. We had a GTE telephone surplus here in Portland = several >years ago and you could go in there and pick up punch blocks, wire, and = wire >connectors for pennies on the dollar. Not anymore! > >Steven > >-------Original Message------- > >From: Residence Organ List >Date: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:59:32 PM >To: Residence Organ List >Subject: [Residence Organs] Cables and such > >Speaking of chest wiring, etc. Does anyone know of a good supplier for 25 = or >50 >pair cable? Crusing around town never got me much and most of the telecom >stores >on the internet want a good deal of money and won't waste time selling = under > >250', which also can cost a lot to ship. >Or, would anyone on the list have any excess 25/50pr cable that's nagging = to >be >tossed. > > >-Drew > > > > > >DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own >Residence Pipe Organs. >HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org >List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > > >DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own >Residence Pipe Organs. >HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org >List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org    
(back) Subject: Blower Question - addition From: <Kzimmer0817@aol.com> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 07:58:40 EDT     --part1_15c.141eb228.2ac1ad70_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   List,   I forgot to mention that the motor label also states:   "Man. by Woods Machine Co. Boston, Mass."   2. The motor is mounted in line with the shaft. There's a hefty pully = that wasn't attached to anything. Here's the info on the motor metal plate on = the side of the motor. The values in brackets "[ ]" are what's engraved on = the little square after the item: Induction Motor Number [9295] Type [ST] HP [2] - apparently 2 hp Speed [1200] guess this means 1200 rpm Phase [3] - this I'm not sure. It's kinda scratched, but looks like a = "3", but the info I got said "single phase". Cycles [60] - apparently 60 Hz Volts [220] - duh Temp Rise C [40] - I'm assuming 40 degrees celsius, not sure what it = means F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really difficult to read, thus to figure = out.   There's no kind of "box" attached to the motor to contain any capacitors, heaters, starters, or whatever that other stuff y'all talked about then.   I found something very interesting with the wires. Dad had cut the power cable about 12" out from the motor. There were cut ends of three wires: a =   black, white, and red. So far it's pretty straightforward. But...... the individual wires thickened as they approached the side of the motor. I started unwrapping black cloth tape and was surprised to find that each of =   the three cables consisted of multistranded gray wire. The colored wire I =   mentioned was simply a 2" remnant of colored heavy guage wire that had = been soldered to the end of the stranded cable, then wrapped with the tape. Had =   dad cut the cable an inch shorter, all I'd have would be three identical = sets of stranded wire coming from the motor. Does this sound kosher? (I'm not =   Jewish, tho).   Thanks, Keith   --part1_15c.141eb228.2ac1ad70_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit   <HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" = FACE=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">List,<BR> <BR> I forgot to mention that the motor label also states:<BR> <BR> "Man. by Woods Machine Co.<BR> Boston, Mass."<BR> <BR> 2.&nbsp; The motor is mounted in line with the shaft.&nbsp; There's a = hefty pully that wasn't attached to anything. Here's the info on the motor = metal plate on the side of the motor.&nbsp; The values in brackets "[ ]" = are what's engraved on the little square after the item:<BR> Induction Motor<BR> Number&nbsp; [9295]<BR> Type&nbsp;&nbsp; [ST]<BR> HP [2]&nbsp; - apparently 2 hp<BR> Speed&nbsp; [1200]&nbsp; guess this means 1200 rpm<BR> Phase [3] - this I'm not sure.&nbsp; It's kinda scratched, but looks like = a "3", but the info I got said "single phase".<BR> Cycles [60]&nbsp; - apparently 60 Hz<BR> Volts [220]&nbsp; - duh<BR> Temp Rise C [40]&nbsp; - I'm assuming 40 degrees celsius, not sure what it = means<BR> F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really difficult to read, thus to figure = out.<BR> <BR> There's no kind of "box" attached to the motor to contain any capacitors, = heaters, starters, or whatever that other stuff y'all talked about = then.<BR> <BR> I found something very interesting with the wires.&nbsp; Dad had cut the = power cable about 12" out from the motor.&nbsp; There were cut ends of = three wires: a black, white, and red. So far it's pretty = straightforward.&nbsp; But...... the individual wires thickened as they = approached the side of the motor.&nbsp; I started unwrapping black cloth = tape and was surprised to find that each of the three cables consisted of = multistranded gray wire.&nbsp; The colored wire I mentioned was simply a = 2" remnant of colored heavy guage wire that had been soldered to the end = of the stranded cable, then wrapped with the tape. Had dad cut the cable = an inch shorter, all I'd have would be three identical sets of stranded = wire coming from the motor.&nbsp;&nbsp; Does this sound kosher? (I'm not = Jewish, tho).<BR> <BR> Thanks,<BR> Keith</FONT></HTML>   --part1_15c.141eb228.2ac1ad70_boundary--  
(back) Subject: Blower Question - addition From: "Richard Schneider" <arpschneider@starband.net> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 08:29:45 -0500     Kzimmer0817@aol.com wrote: > List, > I forgot to mention that the motor label also states: > "Man. by Woods Machine Co. > Boston, Mass."   It was a common manufacturer years ago. > 2. The motor is mounted in line with the shaft. There's a hefty > pully that wasn't attached to anything.     It probably ran a motor-generator to supply the DC current for the organ action. I'm sure it was replaced long ago by a solid state rectifier type power supply ("Orgelectra" or whatever).   > Here's the info on the motor   > Induction Motor   This is a repulsion-Induction motor, which indicates that it is, indeed, a single phase motor.   > Number [9295]   Serial Number   > Type [ST]   Motor mounting/construction style. Today, codes like 48 frame and 56 frame, etc. are used instead.   > HP [2] - apparently 2 hp   Correct.   > Speed [1200] guess this means 1200 rpm   Correct.     > Phase [3] - this I'm not sure. It's kinda scratched, but looks like a > "3", but the info I got said "single phase".   Probably a scratch, as you say. Induction Motors ARE single phase.     > Cycles [60] - apparently 60 Hz   Correct.   > Volts [220] - duh   > Temp Rise C [40] - I'm assuming 40 degrees celsius, not sure what it > means   How hot the motor windings are expected to get during normal operating conditions.   > F.L. Amps [5.75] - this one is really difficult to read, thus to > figure out.   Full Load amps. That's the power consumed when it is producing 2 HP of rotational torque. > There's no kind of "box" attached to the motor to contain any > capacitors, heaters, starters, or whatever that other stuff y'all > talked about then.   The boxes mentioned in the other post are generally mounted adjacent to the Motors, not on them. Capacitors used in conjunction with motors are a relatively recent development. This motor pre-dates most of that.   That notwithstanding, it will still be a requirement that you procure a magnetic starter to run the motor. These contain what electricians term "heaters" or thermal units which are specified and rated based upon the FLA mentioned above. These "heaters" are for an amperage range (such as 4.5-5.2 amps) and so one takes the FLA ampere information to the Electrical Supply House and Electrican in order to specify the correct heaters to use in conjunction with this motor.   The fact that you're at a complete loss as to what all of this information means suggests to me that you are in well over your head when it comes to correctly wiring this blower and obtaining the services of a competent Electrical Contractor to run a dedicated circuit from your breaker box, install the "one-armed Bandit" as a disconnect, followed by the magnetic starter controlled by a pushbutton in your console would be the correct thing to do.   Who knows? The house you prevent burning down by doing so may be your own! > power cable about 12" out from the motor. There were cut ends of > three wires: a black, white, and red. So far it's pretty > straightforward.   Not necessarily. You should only need two wires for 220 volt single phase. This is why obtaining the services of a competent Electrican would be an excellent investment. He can tell you right off exactly what the motor is, test it and ensure that you have it wired properly (and turning in the right direction, which is VERY important!)   Nowadays, a junction box would be required around the motor leads, and it is possible to do this without much trouble. We usually take a Junction Box EXTENSION RING and tap machine screw threads into the motor housing so that the box will fit over the wire entrance into the motor casting and is held in place by machine screws run into these holes. Then the lead wires to the motor can be run out of the bottom of the magnetic starter to this junction box in flexible conduit and a cover placed over the splices in order to meet code.   I hope this helps. If you are overwhelmed by all of this, then you may be a bit in deep water and need to enlist the aid of someone who has the competency to steer you in the right direction on-site, rather than VIA the chatlist. Some things are simply too risky to try to do DIY, and AC electrical work is one of them. Too many houses burn down due to bungled electrical work! We don't want yours to be amongst those statistics.   Faithfully, -- Richard Schneider, PRES/CEO SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Pipe Organ Builders 41-43 Johnston St./P.O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX mailto:arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com SHOP EMAIL mailto:arp@starband.net SHOP SATELLITE EMAIL mailto:arpschneider@starband.net HOME OFFICE EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com WEB PAGE URL      
(back) Subject: [Residence Organs] Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such - guess we're lucky! From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:20:02 -0700   >aren't we? >John > > >>Drew: Oops, meant as a private reply!   John V  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Cables and such From: <Pipewheezr@aol.com> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 10:29:11 EDT   I always like to open the front garage with all the organ wiring on it = when the telephone guy or the cable TV man has to get in there. What the = _________ is all that. Pause, I am in to old telephone systems, But they don't get = the relays. I have lengths of 50 pair and some 25 pair that are not long enough for = what I have to wire next. If any one can use them, give me a length I will see what I have. There is a Grabar warehouse in Sandy Eggo that sells the cable so I don't have problems getting it same the same day. Have fun Dennis