DIYAPASON-L Digest #798 - Friday, April 18, 2003
 
Re: voidless plywood
  by <d.doerschuk@att.net>
Re: voidless plywood
  by "Richard Schneider" <arpschneider@starband.net>
 

(back) Subject: Re: voidless plywood From: <d.doerschuk@att.net> Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 16:34:00 +0000   Mr. Tom Dimock writes on the 17th of April: > At 04:00 PM 4/17/2003 +0000, Dave wrote: >> Two quick points: 1) I don't believe I've ever >> seen this kind of plywood available in thicknesses >> greater than 1/2". Many choices inbetween 1/16" >> and 1/2", but larger than 1/2" will probably require >> a glue-up from yourself. 2) This stuff is quite >> expensive; hold onto your wallet. > > How about 4" 72-ply Finnish > Birch?? http://www.northamply.com/finland_birch.html   Wow! That is the thickest void-free plywood I have ever seen! Aircraft plywoods generally stop at 1/2" for obvious weight reasons. Maybe the 4" Finnish Birch would have an application as armor behind the pilot's seat! = :-) I stand corrected, and thank you for the pointer to the great site.   While we're on the subject of toeboards: I seal the toe holes as the last = step after charring the chamfers. I use hide glue for the sealant, and was wondering if anyone used something different?   Let us always remember the immortal words of Charles Kegg, tongue firmly = in cheek, on the AIO tape "Electric Action: Heathen or Hero" where he says: "Always use ZZZ-grade fir finished-one-side plywood for toeboards. You = know, the stuff with all the footballs in it? The voids make GREAT expansion chambers!"   Best of luck with all your projects, Dave Doerschuk  
(back) Subject: Re: voidless plywood From: "Richard Schneider" <arpschneider@starband.net> Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 12:06:23 -0500   d.doerschuk@att.net wrote:   > While we're on the subject of toeboards: I seal the toe holes as the = last step > after charring the chamfers. I use hide glue for the sealant, and was > wondering if anyone used something different?   We just lacquer everything and it makes the holes look really cool with the lacquered black char.   Interestingly enough, we also burn our Rackboard holes, as well as our Toe Holes using the Burning Irons that Laukhuff sells. No special reason, other than we think it looks MUCH nicer with the lacquer sealed black edges than raw plywood. Reeds are always racked using Felt around the Boots and Resonators, so no burning of these surfaces is done.   BTW, I think it is sheer FOLLY on the part of ANY builders or amateurs alike to use solid wood for Rackboards, because let's face it: one has to often STAND on Rackboards inside an organ, and Plywood is far better able to take the weight without damage (unless it's the Wicks 1/4" plywood Rackboards which they're so infamous for!) than solid wood.   With all of the "Swiss Cheezing" that goes on during the process of drilling the rack, screw shank and Rack Pin holes, a solid Rackboard is BOUND to split and crack! Then it has to be replaced anyway. Best to avoid it from the get-go.   > Let us always remember the immortal words of Charles Kegg, tongue firmly = in > cheek, on the AIO tape "Electric Action: Heathen or Hero" where he says: > "Always use ZZZ-grade fir finished-one-side plywood for toeboards. You = know, > the stuff with all the footballs in it? The voids make GREAT expansion > chambers!"   ROTFLMAO! I spent exactly 30 days with a "builder" who practiced that technique religiously.   Faithfully,   G.A.   -- Richard Schneider, PRES/CEO SCHNEIDER PIPE ORGANS, Inc. Pipe Organ Builders 41-43 Johnston St./P.O. Box 137 Kenney, IL 61749-0137 (217) 944-2454 VOX (217) 944-2527 FAX mailto:arp@schneiderpipeorgans.com SHOP EMAIL mailto:arp@starband.net SHOP SATELLITE EMAIL mailto:arpschneider@starband.net HOME OFFICE EMAIL http://www.schneiderpipeorgans.com WEB PAGE URL