DIYAPASON-L Digest #725 - Tuesday, January 14, 2003
 
Re: DIYAPASON-L Digest #724 - 01/13/03
  by "Terry Gibson" <terryg55@nexicom.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  Re: DIYAPASON-L Digest #724 - 01/13/03
  by "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu>
reconnecting a cut cable
  by "Tommy Gray" <tgray@easthighlandbaptist.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  reconnecting a cut cable
  by "Dorian" <dorian.organs@verizon.net>
Re: [Residence Organs]  reconnecting a cut cable
  by "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  reconnecting a cut cable
  by "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu>
Re: [Residence Organs]  reconnecting a cut cable
  by "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com>
Re: [Residence Organs]  reconnecting a cut cable
  by "Peter Schmuckal" <peter@schmuckal.com>
 

(back) Subject: Re: DIYAPASON-L Digest #724 - 01/13/03 From: "Terry Gibson" <terryg55@nexicom.net> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:22:27 -0500   Regarding the discussion on swell box construction and reverb/echo, had = you given any consideration to electronic reverb? My 6rk unit organ is in a room = with single 1/2" drywall and 2X4 studs. Drywall is on outside only. The swell effect is = very very good. The organ speaks into a large basement room which measures 28' X 16' with = an 8' ceiling. There is carpet in the floor and furniture so its really dead. I have put = a couple of radio shack "electret" mic's over the pipes (the 2 for $5 kind) , the mic's run to an Alesis microverb unit and then to a 2 channel stereo amp feeding 4 speakers. This makes the = "dead" basement sound like a cathedral. The microverb unit has many different time delay programs on it so the effect can be adjusted to taste. Total cost was about $500 and = worth every penny. Something to consider if your concerned about room acoustics. Terry Gibson         ----- Original Message ----- From: "Residence Organ List" <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> To: "Residence Organ List" <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 12:30 AM Subject: DIYAPASON-L Digest #724 - 01/13/03     > DIYAPASON-L Digest #724 - Monday, January 13, 2003 > > Re: [Residence Organs] Swell Chamber Construction > by "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> > RE: progress report > by "STEVE PITTS" <steve.pitts@adtran.com> > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Swell Chamber Construction > From: "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> > Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 07:58:58 -0500 > > At 12:03 PM 1/10/2003 -0800, you wrote: > > >I hadn't thought that the chamber could be "too live" as I thought that was > >the idea. What is mean by that and why is it bad? I doubt that will = be an > >issue anyway since it is a small chamber and will probably be pretty crammed > >with stuff when all is said and done. > > My chamber had a about a 1 second reverb in response to such as a hammer > striking the floor while empty. Now with chests and pipes in the room it > quite calm as far as echo or reverb, but it reflects out and mixes the > sounds of the pipes very well. That is what is wanted anyway. > > Eric > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: RE: progress report > From: "STEVE PITTS" <steve.pitts@adtran.com> > Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:59:45 -0600 > > > > an addition to the never ending saga of the OLPH reconstruction project: > > I am in the process of re-constructing a 19 rank organ I purchased from Our Lady of Perpetual Help in Carrolton , Georgia. About 6 months ago, I bought a house on 7 acres with a 30' X 30' modernized barn. I have been installing the organ in the barn which has worked out nicely as the 10' + ceilings allow all of my tallest pipes to stand vertical. What a lot of work! I have been doing nothing but wiring and cabling for months now, trying to get the Great Division connect to the relay. Anyway, Up until = now, I have only had a 4 rank chest playing with no pedal resources except when coupling the Great to pedal, I get some 8 ft stops for the pedal. So, I wanted to integrate my 16' bass flute to the organ to have a nice voice = for the pedal. My main air system is not up yet. I am using a small reed organ blower for the 4 rank chest, so I needed a small blower to air up the 16' bass flute. A while back, Al Sefl mentioned that their favorite blower is one from C & H Sales ACB9804 that cost $65. > > Next : connect air to the Great Division reservoir...then I will have 9 more ranks playing including 2 8' open diapasons, a melodia, 8ft harmonic tuba and a 16'bourdon and others.... > > Steve Pitts > Ardmore Tennessee > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > End of DIYAPASON-L Digest > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org > >    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] Re: DIYAPASON-L Digest #724 - 01/13/03 From: "Eric Sagmuller" <ess4@psu.edu> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:55:37 -0500   At 09:22 AM 1/14/2003 -0500, you wrote: >Regarding the discussion on swell box construction and reverb/echo, had = you >given >any consideration to electronic reverb?   This was my first desire for my fairly large Great room where my console is located. I have a Microverb 4 I used with my Allen before I got =   a real organ. It worked fairly well but still had an artificialness to it. =   Now that my room has around a 1 second reverb I don't even think I'll consider going electronic. I have more work to do on my room to make it more live so once it's done I think I'll be very satisfied. But for those with dead rooms I think it would be something to try.   Eric    
(back) Subject: reconnecting a cut cable From: "Tommy Gray" <tgray@easthighlandbaptist.com> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:22:33 -0600   This is my first posting on this board. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for reconnecting wires in a cable from the console to the = relay box. I just recently acquired a 4r Wicks where this cable has been cut. All the wires within the cable are color coded. I might add this is a = first for me. Thanks for any ideas. Tommy Gray      
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] reconnecting a cut cable From: "Dorian" <dorian.organs@verizon.net> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:52:27 -0600   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0011_01C2BBBB.076C1F00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Hello, Tommy Gray: =3D20 You might try splicing the wires; telephone=3D20 people make a good living at this. =3D20 A more goof-proof way is to use a junction=3D20 strip; purchase one or make it yourself out=3D20 of brass nails. =3D20 =3D20 Match the color coded wires from both cut-ends=3D20 of the cable and solder. You're in business. =3D20 F. Richard Burt Dorian Organs =3D20 =3D20 .. ------=3D_NextPart_000_0011_01C2BBBB.076C1F00 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type content=3D3D"text/html; =3D charset=3D3Diso-8859-1"> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3D3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>Hello, Tommy = Gray:</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>You might try splicing the = =3D wires; telephone=3D20 </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>people make a good living = at=3D20 this.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>A more goof-proof way is to = use =3D a junction=3D20 </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>strip; purchase one or make = it =3D yourself out=3D20 </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>of brass nails.&nbsp; =3D </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>Match the color coded wires = =3D from both=3D20 cut-ends </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>of the cable and = solder.&nbsp; =3D You're in=3D20 business.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>F. Richard Burt</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>Dorian Organs</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3D3D"Courier New" size=3D3D2>.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0011_01C2BBBB.076C1F00--    
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] reconnecting a cut cable From: "Larry Chace" <RLC1@etnainstruments.com> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:11:51 -0500   Tommy Gray <tgray@easthighlandbaptist.com> asked about re-connecting a severed cable from console to chamber. Of course, several questions and options come to mind.   If the cable is long enough, then it might be possible to delete one of = the "halves" and then reconnect the cut end at an existing terminal board or junction strip. This method probably requires a fair amount of good luck!   Depending upon the type of conductors, it may be possible to purchase male and female connectors of a suitable type and use them to re-connect the wires. This could facilitate moving the organ at some future time. Some folks have used DB-25 or DB-37 connectors and others have used the 50-position "Centronics" type that was also used a lot by telephone companies.   Telephone-type "punch down blocks" might also be suitable, if the wires = are of a size commonly used in phone systems (typically 24 or 26 gauge).   With some strips of wood (nicely finished with organge shellac, of = course!) and headless brass pins you can make your own junction strips. Be = prepared to drill lots of holes (say, 1/16" for each pin and two 1/8" or so for the wires connecting to that pin).   If the color coding is "sufficient", you can just re-connect similar colors, watching out for the color-coding strands that identify the = groups, as you'll find in telephone-type cables. If the cable doesn't have that finely-detailed color-coding scheme, then you'll have to determine which red wire connects to which other red wire, etc., and that can be a fun game. (HA!) Bells, lights, and buzzers are all traditional tools for finding the "other end" of a wire.   Corrigated cardboard strips can be used as "combs" to sort out loose = wires. You just push the loose end into the various channels, one per wire. Be sure you don't rip the cardboard and let multiple wires end up in the same channel!   So, it all depends on the details like where the cable was cut, how much cable is needed in the new installation, how "disconnectable" the new installation has to be, your budget for hardware (pin, connectors, etc.), your available (free!) time, how you want the results to look, the nature of the cable's color coding, and so on! ;-)   If the old cable is made of cotton-covered wires, then you are looking at replacing it (according to the National Electric Code and good sense!), which is a somewhat different project. (Most old cotton-covered wire was white, but some was color-coded.)   Larry Chace        
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] reconnecting a cut cable From: "John Vanderlee" <jovanderlee@vassar.edu> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 13:14:37 -0800   >This is my first posting on this board. Just wondering if anyone has any >suggestions for reconnecting wires in a cable from the console to the = relay >box. I just recently acquired a 4r Wicks where this cable has been cut. >All the wires within the cable are color coded. I might add this is a = first >for me. Thanks for any ideas. Tommy Gray > > > >DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own >Residence Pipe Organs. >HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org >List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org   you might consider telephone "punchblocks" to use as the spreader boards for the cables. If the cabling is not long enough you could even go to telephone cabling. i.e. from organ - to punchblock to phone cable (with connectors if need be) to punchblock to console.   John V  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] reconnecting a cut cable From: "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:04:14 -0600   At 12:11 PM -0500 01/14/03, Larry Chace wrote: >If the color coding is "sufficient", you can just re-connect similar >colors, watching out for the color-coding strands that identify the = groups, >as you'll find in telephone-type cables. If the cable doesn't have that >finely-detailed color-coding scheme, then you'll have to determine which >red wire connects to which other red wire, etc., and that can be a fun >game. (HA!) Bells, lights, and buzzers are all traditional tools for >finding the "other end" of a wire.   Under the "Resources" link on the List Web Site - http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org/ - there are two versions of the color-code coding used in organ wirings. One is an Acrobat PDF file and the other is a Microsoft Excel spread sheet. either of them should help to identify the color-code of the cables.   David  
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] reconnecting a cut cable From: "Peter Schmuckal" <peter@schmuckal.com> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:45:35 -0800     Interestingly enough I just helped splice a large cable on a Wicks in = order to increase the cable length and allow a moveable console.   If you don't need the extra length and can get away with re-wiring one end of the cable to the console or chest, that would be the best way to avoid = a splice. I would advise against a spice without using spreader boards, connectors or some other organizational method or else you'll end up with = a big football sized lump in the middle of the cable and the connections can easily break w/o strain relief. We used the spreader board w/ pins technique mounted on boards because we could hide this splice in a pit = area. It's also nice for debugging organ problems w/o having to go up into the chests. I've used DBxx style connectors in other cases but it's a bit more work.   Regarding the cable color code, the Wicks organs that don't use cotton covered wire typically use a solid color wiring scheme rather than the standard solid/stripe wire used in telephony. So in this case, you will have several wires of the same color that you will have to buzz out if you don't have any other information (such as the wires are still bundled into ranks, etc..)   The best way to buzz out wires is to use an actual buzzer or bell (continuous ringing type) to check for continuity. The reason is that you will get a nice spark when you make contact with the correct wire. You = can use a knife to "fan" across all the wires you're interesting in and watch for the spark & sound. It goes surprisingly fast once you get the hang of it.   Or you can just replace the entire cable with "modern" 50 conductor telephone cable. Or better yet, put in a multiplex system.   - Peter Schmuckal     ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Scribner" <david@blackiris.com> To: "Residence Organ List" <DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 5:04 PM Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] reconnecting a cut cable     > At 12:11 PM -0500 01/14/03, Larry Chace wrote: > >If the color coding is "sufficient", you can just re-connect similar > >colors, watching out for the color-coding strands that identify the groups, > >as you'll find in telephone-type cables. If the cable doesn't have = that > >finely-detailed color-coding scheme, then you'll have to determine = which > >red wire connects to which other red wire, etc., and that can be a fun > >game. (HA!) Bells, lights, and buzzers are all traditional tools for > >finding the "other end" of a wire. > > Under the "Resources" link on the List Web Site - > http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org/ - there are two versions of the > color-code coding used in organ wirings. One is an Acrobat PDF file > and the other is a Microsoft Excel spread sheet. either of them > should help to identify the color-code of the cables. > > David > > DIYAPASON-L: a Discussion list for owners and builders of their own > Residence Pipe Organs. > HOMEPAGE : http://www.diyapason.pipechat.org > List: mailto:DIYAPASON-L@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:owner-DIYAPASON@pipechat.org >