DIYAPASON-L Digest #963 - Wednesday, February 18, 2004 Re: How to Solder? by "Jim Henry" <email@example.com> RE; How to Solder? by "Robert W. Taylor" <firstname.lastname@example.org> Re: [Residence Organs] How to Solder? by "Ron Natalie" <email@example.com> New Theatre Organists Group by "Bob Loesch" <firstname.lastname@example.org> Residence Organ in the news... by "John Haskey" <email@example.com>
(back) Subject: Re: How to Solder? From: "Jim Henry" <firstname.lastname@example.org> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 22:19:03 -0800 I'm not sure I understand the problem. The preferred way to solder is to have a solid mechanical connection and then apply solder to fill the = joint. Organs are massive examples of not doing it that way. Pipes, windlines, wires etc. can be found with soldered butt joints where the solder alone provides all the mechanical strength of the joint. As long as you can = hold two solderable pieces of metal in close contact without moving you can = join them with solder. As you've observed, the resulting connecting is easily broken. But if the joint doesn't get too much mechanical stress it will hold and conduct. I think that if you tin both wires to be joined, heat one wire with a = small but hot soldering iron to melt the tinning, bring the second wire into contact, and then remove the iron as soon as the tinning melts on the = second wire, you will form a joint. It should take just a quick touch to melt = the solder and form the joint. The phosphor bronze may be adequately tinned = by the solder from the original connection. You might want to add a bit of rosin flux to the phosphor bronze tinning to clean the old solder. The trick will be to quickly melt the tinning so it forms a joint and then = take the heat off so it solidfies before there is movement. If the iron isn't hot enough, the joint will take too long to heat and the whole wire will heat slowing the cooling and lengthing the time the parts have to be held motionless. Once you get "the touch" it should go quite quickly. You = might want to practice using solid copper wire of about the same gauge as the phosphor bronze. Jim Henry ----- Original Message ----- Subject: How to Solder? From: "Robert W. Taylor" <email@example.com> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 08:56:29 -0600 After two years of study, I still haven't figured out how Aeolian made solder connections. The connections in question are those where space is small. Typically, a phosphor bronze switch wire is joined to the cotton covered organ cable wire. The two wires are overlapped about 1/4 inch and soldered in that position. Both wires are usually supported by nearby guides.
(back) Subject: RE; How to Solder? From: "Robert W. Taylor" <firstname.lastname@example.org> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 08:36:57 -0600 Almost immediately after I posted the original question, I came up with three schemes to solve my problem. The scheme I employed was simple. In this situation, the phosphor bronze switch wires are mounted horizontally on maple. The wires are secured by = a wood strip which overlays, at right angles, the entire array of contact wires. Each wire lays in a tiny groove at the point that the wood strip passes. Just aft of the wood strip, the phosphor wire is bent 90 degrees, and the bent portion goes vertically down a small hole in the maple. The length of the bent portion is about 1/4 inch. I removed the wood strip, and lifted the bent portion slightly out of its hole. The new cable wire was passed under the phosphor bronze wire. Then the switch wire was forced back down into its hole. The new cable wire = now was pulled tight, making a 180 degree turn around the vertical portion of the switch wire. The top of the hole then became the point of solder connection. (actually, I completely removed each switch wire so that I could clean the wire before soldering.) This system requires no modification to the hardware, and offers a strong junction before soldering. When finished, the available space proved to = be more than needed for rewiring and soldering. Mission accomplished! Bob Taylor
(back) Subject: Re: [Residence Organs] How to Solder? From: "Ron Natalie" <email@example.com> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 10:09:09 -0500 > Soldering to the exposed DCC wire that close to the > original solder joint will probably undo the original > soldered connection immediately. The heat conducts > along the wire too quickly that close together. > Ahh, in that case you just use an old trick I learned from soldering transistors. Take an alligator clip and clip it between the point you are soldering and the place you want to protect. The extra thermal mass of the clip will soak up the heat coming down the wire.
(back) Subject: New Theatre Organists Group From: "Bob Loesch" <firstname.lastname@example.org> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 19:11:05 -0800 I've started a group for anyone who plays Theatre Organ to give us a forum = to discuss playing techniques, tricks, registration hints, and things of that nature. Come visit us at http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/TheatreOrganistsGroup/ Regards, Bob http://home.jps.net/~rrloesch/index.htm
(back) Subject: Residence Organ in the news... From: "John Haskey" <email@example.com> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2004 19:58:28 -0800 (PST) But not the kind of news we like to hear... http://www.saljournal.com/content/2-0-/module/displaystory/story_id/1183/fo= rmat/html/displaystory.html (or here if the above URL wraps) http://tinyurl.com/34o7m Let's be careful out there folks... ---john.