PipeChat Digest #1819 - Sunday, February 11, 2001
 
Septuagesima - St. Matthew's, Newport Beach CA (X-posted)
  by <quilisma@socal.rr.com>
16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by "Jason Comet" <diaphone64@hotmail.com>
Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by "John L. Speller" <jlspeller@mindspring.com>
Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by "Gary Blevins" <gsblvns@camalott.com>
Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by <TubaMagna@aol.com>
Music List, St. Peter's, Redwood City
  by "randy terry" <randyterryus@yahoo.com>
Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by "randy terry" <randyterryus@yahoo.com>
Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by "Jason Comet" <diaphone64@hotmail.com>
Leather Coupler
  by "Jason Comet" <diaphone64@hotmail.com>
(no subject)
  by "Cylocke" <Cylocke@mediaone.net>
Re:
  by <RonSeverin@aol.com>
RE: Leather Coupler
  by "Sam Vause" <vause@home.com>
Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon
  by <TRACKELECT@cs.com>
Re: Leather Coupler
  by "Louis Katz" <Louis.Katz@iris.tamucc.edu>
Re: Leather Coupler
  by "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net>
leather coupler repair
  by "Cylocke" <Cylocke@mediaone.net>
Re: Leather Coupler
  by <TRACKELECT@cs.com>
more advice...yikes
  by "Cylocke" <Cylocke@mediaone.net>
 

(back) Subject: Septuagesima - St. Matthew's, Newport Beach CA (X-posted) From: <quilisma@socal.rr.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 06:35:47 -0800   Voluntary - God's Time Is Best - Bach Processional - Come, Labor On - Ora labora Propers - Circumdederunt me - Griesbacher Setting - Merbecke Psalm 121 - Barnby in B Flat Offertory Anthem - Fight the Good Fight - Ley For the Doxology - All Things Come of Thee - traditional Great Amen - Missa Marialis Communion Anthem - O Brother Man - Parry Communion Hymn - I Am Not Worthy, Holy Lord - Durwood Orison - Day By Day - Sumner Recessional - God of Grace and God of Glory - Cwm Rhondda Voluntary - March in C - Purcell   Back among the living ...   Cheers,   Bud    
(back) Subject: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: "Jason Comet" <diaphone64@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 13:08:10 -0500   Is it acceptable to make a 16' Open Wood rank a 32' Bourdon? I know this have been talked about before, but I've got a few questions about actually =   going about doing it.   Is it worth it?   What kind of voicing work would have to be done?   Don't you have to make the pipes a few inches longer?   Thanks, and I'll look in the archives to see if there's anything I = missed... if I can find them!   Jason Comet _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com    
(back) Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: "John L. Speller" <jlspeller@mindspring.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:19:32 -0600   Jason Comet wrote:   > Is it acceptable to make a 16' Open Wood rank a 32' Bourdon? I know = this > have been talked about before, but I've got a few questions about = actually > going about doing it. > > Is it worth it? > > What kind of voicing work would have to be done? > > Don't you have to make the pipes a few inches longer? > > Thanks, and I'll look in the archives to see if there's anything I = missed... > if I can find them! >   We have recently done this, I think very successfully, at Quimby Pipe = Organs. We have been relocating the old Reuter organ from the University of = Kansas, Lawrence to Corpus Christi Roman Catholic Church in Lawrence, and are = adding a 32' Contra Bourdon. We have made the 32' Contra Bourdon from an Open = Wood, and it has resulted in a honey of a 32' that just purrs away in the bass. We = did, however, make three new pipes in the bass for the three longest pipes C, = C# and D. With the old tuning slots and adding stoppers, the lowest pipe would = only speak D# satisfactorily. It would have been possible to lengthen all the = pipes, but this would have not have been as satisfactory a solution, especially = as adding the three additional pipes has enabled us to rescale the stop a = little wider.   John Speller    
(back) Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: "Gary Blevins" <gsblvns@camalott.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:49:47 -0600   Hello Jason, Yes, if you put stoppers in the pipes they will come out not quite an = octave lower-they'll be sharp. You will also need to use less wind than what the pipes were originally voiced for. If this open wood is already playing in the organ, I personally wouldn't = do it. If you are thinking of acquiring the pipes to add to the organ, I'd = say give it a try if you want. If they work, you will prabably find that the pipes are 3-4 notes sharp, so you will end up only using the lowest 8-9 pipes and having to make the lowest 3-4 notes resultant. Some other listers will have more knowledge and experience in what to look for in the mouth construction, cut up and so forth--I'm just saying basically it will be highly experimental at best. Hope this helps. -Gary -----Original Message----- From: Jason Comet <diaphone64@hotmail.com> To: pipechat@pipechat.org <pipechat@pipechat.org> Date: Sunday, February 11, 2001 12:19 PM Subject: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon     >Is it acceptable to make a 16' Open Wood rank a 32' Bourdon? I know this >have been talked about before, but I've got a few questions about = actually >going about doing it. > >Is it worth it? > >What kind of voicing work would have to be done? > >Don't you have to make the pipes a few inches longer? > >Thanks, and I'll look in the archives to see if there's anything I missed... > if I can find them! > >Jason Comet >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > >"Pipe Up and Be Heard!" >PipeChat: A discussion List for pipe/digital organs & related topics >HOMEPAGE : http://www.pipechat.org >List: mailto:pipechat@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:admin@pipechat.org >Subscribe/Unsubscribe: mailto:requests@pipechat.org    
(back) Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: <TubaMagna@aol.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 13:58:06 EST   I'm in agreement with Gary Blevins on this one. If the Open Wood 16' is already in the organ, forming a solid foundation to undergird the full = organ, don't mess with it. If you've found an old set to ADD to an existing = organ, you have two options: (A) Add it as a magnificent 16' Open Wood, which would be the most = useful; or (B) Have your pipe maker build the bottom three or four pipes according = to an extrapolated scale, as well as new stoppers. You might even consider those rope-handled stoppers that Mr. Skinner used to use on his Major Bass =   stops. Just make sure you aren't sacrificing a really wonderful, useful, able-to-be-heard 16' cornerstone of a pedal division for the allure of an unsuccessful, wind-and-space hogging 32' Bourdon, used in so little of the =   literature. Sebastian Matthaus Gluck New York City  
(back) Subject: Music List, St. Peter's, Redwood City From: "randy terry" <randyterryus@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 14:08:54 -0800 (PST)   Epiphany 6, Holy Eucharist and Baptism     Voluntary: "Deck Thyself..." Bach Processional Hymn: "Joyful, joyful, we adore thee" Gospel Hymn: "Blest are the pure in heart" Baptism Hymn: "Day by Day" Offertory Anthem: "Christ Jesus came to Jordan" Terry Sanctus: Proulx Fraction: Hurd Communion Anthem: "Dona nobis pacem" Mozart Closing Hymn: "Christ is made the sure foundation" Voluntary: "Processional" Mathias       =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Randy Terry The Episcopal Church of St. Peter Redwood City, California   __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/  
(back) Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: "randy terry" <randyterryus@yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 14:18:56 -0800 (PST)     --- Gary Blevins <gsblvns@camalott.com> wrote: > If this open wood is already playing in the organ, I personally wouldn't = do > it.   I agree. At the Palo Alto UMC the chancel organ has a big Robert Morton = 16' Open Wood, from the late 20's early 30's, I think. Not only is the bass wonderful, and not terribly boomy, the 8' extension is especially useful. There is also a 32' Bourdon - I think pipes to low F then resultant. = However, F, F#, and G are useless, simply being gusts of wind noise. However, the 10-2/3' Quint helps. I am finding that in cases where the rooms are good, = at least, if you don't already have the big pipes, an electronic extension = *can* be more successful. I've been toying with the idea of electronic 32' = exts. and a 16' ext of the Diapason, but for 18 ranks the resultant and loud and = soft bourdons will be fine.   =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Randy Terry The Episcopal Church of St. Peter Redwood City, California   __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/  
(back) Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: "Jason Comet" <diaphone64@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:27:34 -0500   Seb and listers,   No, I am not using the existing 16' OW. I have a 16' Open Wood (Open Diapason) of about 10x12 CCC. Plus I have a 16' Bourdon with the Skinner Rope Stoppers. I am aquiring a 16' OW rank. So no, I am not hacking = apart or altering the existing 16' OW. That stop os one of the treasures in = this area! A REAL room shaker!!!!   The organ is a 1913 Moller TP converted to EP in the 60's. Expansion, as most of you have heard, is in the works. I was just wondering if it would =   be less expensive to convert a 16' OW to a 32' Bourdon. Yes, of course, it's a LOT cheaper to have 3 or 4 new pipes made than an entire 32 or 44 note rank!   Thank you and keep them coming!   Jason Comet     >From: TubaMagna@aol.com >Reply-To: "PipeChat" <pipechat@pipechat.org> >To: pipechat@pipechat.org >Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon >Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 13:58:06 EST > >I'm in agreement with Gary Blevins on this one. If the Open Wood 16' is >already in the organ, forming a solid foundation to undergird the full >organ, >don't mess with it. If you've found an old set to ADD to an existing >organ, >you have two options: >(A) Add it as a magnificent 16' Open Wood, which would be the most = useful; >or >(B) Have your pipe maker build the bottom three or four pipes according =   >to >an extrapolated scale, as well as new stoppers. You might even consider >those rope-handled stoppers that Mr. Skinner used to use on his Major = Bass >stops. >Just make sure you aren't sacrificing a really wonderful, useful, >able-to-be-heard 16' cornerstone of a pedal division for the allure of an >unsuccessful, wind-and-space hogging 32' Bourdon, used in so little of = the >literature. >Sebastian Matthaus Gluck >New York City > >"Pipe Up and Be Heard!" >PipeChat: A discussion List for pipe/digital organs & related topics >HOMEPAGE : http://www.pipechat.org >List: mailto:pipechat@pipechat.org >Administration: mailto:admin@pipechat.org >Subscribe/Unsubscribe: mailto:requests@pipechat.org >   _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com    
(back) Subject: Leather Coupler From: "Jason Comet" <diaphone64@hotmail.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:48:40 -0500   I had a problem yesterday with the blower. Turn it on and there was only enough wind for the 8' Open Diapason, then it sagged when there was a full =   chord played.   At first test, by the remote switch with the blower, I thought it was the brushes/bushes/whatever in the motor. Of course, today, I only used the electric piano! (EEK!!)   After the service, I went back down to the blower/boiler room with a = member of the trustees and the chair of the music committee to check it out once more.   I started the motor, then I noticed the coupling between the motor and fan =   shaft wasn't connected completely.   That exact coupler was replaced 3 years ago by the same member of the trustees. That was when the original LEATHER coupling went-up. He = replaced it with a rubber coupling.   Well, goes to show you WHY they used a LEATHER coupler instead of a RUBBER =   one.... The oil and other petro's in the grease/oil/etc... ate away at = the rubber coupling. The leather one lasted from 1913-1998!!!!!   The question: Where can I get a LEATHER coupler for the Kinetic/Century Blower/Motor unit???   He's going to replace the coupler AGAIN with a RUBBER one, which I don't feel is appropriate, knowing the rubber/oil combination doesn't work.   Jason Comet _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com    
(back) Subject: From: "Cylocke" <Cylocke@mediaone.net> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:02:22 -0500   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_003E_01C09454.C892C700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Dear all:   After perusing the different opinions offered about converting a 16' DOD = =3D into a 32' Bourdon, I offer this unsolicited advice from a young man in the =3D organbuilding industry.   Merely putting a stopper in an open pipe will not create the effect you = =3D desire. Chances are the pipes will be too short and the scale not large = =3D enough to creat e the fundamental wanted. If your DOD is smaller than =3D say 12X14 (inside), you may end up with a rather large and not so nice =3D Quintadena. Check aslo the mouth widths and the cut ups. Stopped 32's = =3D are best with wide mouths and medium cut ups. The higher the cut-up, the = =3D more wind will be required to produce the fundamental. If you convert =3D these pipes, be sure that all the seams are intact and that the new =3D stoppers are felted, leathered, greased and TIGHT. Open wood pipes are = =3D forgiving of some leakage, but stopped woods are not. Some DODs have =3D inside rollers or beards installed to aid in the speech, as open woods =3D are sluggish. Stopped ranks speak promplty if voiced correctly. My =3D point is there are many variables involved and this conversion should be = =3D planned out well with a competant voicer experienced im these matters.   Best regards, Alan     ------=3D_NextPart_000_003E_01C09454.C892C700 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D3D"text/html; charset=3D3Dwindows-1252" =3D http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3D3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#c8e0d8> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Dear all:</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>After perusing the different opinions offered about = =3D converting=3D20 a 16' DOD into a</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>32' Bourdon, I offer this unsolicited advice from a = =3D young man=3D20 in the organbuilding industry.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Merely putting a stopper in an open pipe will not = =3D create the=3D20 effect you desire.&nbsp; Chances are the pipes will be too short and the = =3D scale=3D20 not large enough to creat e the fundamental wanted.&nbsp; If your DOD is = =3D smaller=3D20 than say 12X14 (inside), you may end up with a rather large and not so =3D nice=3D20 Quintadena.&nbsp; Check aslo the mouth widths and the cut=3D20 ups.&nbsp;&nbsp;Stopped 32's are best with wide mouths and medium cut=3D20 ups.&nbsp;The&nbsp;higher the cut-up, the more wind will be required to = =3D produce=3D20 the fundamental.&nbsp; If you convert these pipes, be sure that all the = =3D seams=3D20 are intact and that the new stoppers are felted, leathered, greased = and=3D20 TIGHT.&nbsp; Open wood pipes&nbsp;are forgiving of some leakage, but =3D stopped=3D20 woods are not.&nbsp; Some DODs have inside rollers or beards installed = =3D to aid=3D20 in the speech, as open woods are sluggish.&nbsp; Stopped ranks speak =3D promplty if=3D20 voiced correctly.&nbsp; My point is there are many variables involved =3D and this=3D20 conversion should be planned out well with a competant voicer =3D experienced im=3D20 these matters.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Best regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Alan</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_003E_01C09454.C892C700--    
(back) Subject: Re: From: <RonSeverin@aol.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:11:40 EST   Good for you Alan,   An Open 16' to 32' Bourdon is not a slam dunk! Good advice!   Ron  
(back) Subject: RE: Leather Coupler From: "Sam Vause" <vause@home.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 16:19:33 -0700   Hmmm... Perhaps it IS appropriate as long as everyone understands it will fail in a similarly short term. I agree with you that a more long-term solution would be desirable. --sam Sam Vause (Chandler, AZ)   -----Original Message----- From: Jason Comet Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 3:49 PM Subject: Leather Coupler   I had a problem yesterday with the blower. Turn it on and there was only enough wind for the 8' Open Diapason, then it sagged when there was a full chord played. .... I started the motor, then I noticed the coupling between the motor and fan shaft wasn't connected completely.   That exact coupler was replaced 3 years ago by the same member of the trustees. That was when the original LEATHER coupling went-up. He = replaced it with a rubber coupling.   Well, goes to show you WHY they used a LEATHER coupler instead of a RUBBER one.... The oil and other petro's in the grease/oil/etc... ate away at = the rubber coupling. The leather one lasted from 1913-1998!!!!! .... He's going to replace the coupler AGAIN with a RUBBER one, which I don't feel is appropriate, knowing the rubber/oil combination doesn't work.    
(back) Subject: Re: 16' OW - 32' Bourdon From: <TRACKELECT@cs.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:08:08 EST   I'm involved with just such a project at the Ocean Grove Auditorium. They have a 32' Diaphone, 32' Bombard, 32' Trombone and an electronic 32' = Violone. There is a 16' Tibia Clausa and 16' Tibia Pleana in one of the original = Hope Jones concrete chambers that cancel each other out when used together = because the chamber is almost a cube. (acoustics / standing waves etc.) They need = a 'soft' 32' flute to fill in the gap between the Diaphone and Bombard = (don't all of you organists wish you had problems like this?) so they decided to have me make stoppers for the Tibia Plena. I made two for CCC and CCC# to = see if it would work. I don't have to tell anyone who if familiar with the = work of Hope Jones that the scale is HUGE and the windpressure is HIGH, (have = you ever seen a reservoir with 20 springs?) I pounded them in with a sledge hammer and sat on top of the pipe while John Shaw (curator) poked the = primary with his finger. I can tell you that those two pipes produced substantial profound fundamentals. We really couldn't tell just what pitch they were producing being that close to them inside of a concrete bunker but I think =   that the 16' C pipe may be very close to the 32' C. Granted, these are = very large scale pipes, without consulting my notes I think I remember making a =   20" x 16" stopper. Mr. Shaw has been experimenting with rollers and is satisfied with the results and has ordered stoppers for the rest of the pipes. They went into =   this with the idea of making the bottom 4 notes resultants but while I was =   sitting on top of that CCC pipe my butt was counting something close to 16 =   Hz. The long and short of this is that if you have enough pipe and enough wind and you know what you are doing it can work.   Alan B  
(back) Subject: Re: Leather Coupler From: "Louis Katz" <Louis.Katz@iris.tamucc.edu> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:11:43 -0800   Hi, Maybe another coupler designed for such use would work, maybe contact = Grainger. They are pretty quick to ship if they don't stock it. Hard to beat leather though. The belt I was given for my 13th birthday stretched to meet my increasing size, then finally gave way when I turned forty. I am now using = a belt (same buckle) that I got at an auction as part of a lot that included Marble slabs. The new leather sat outside for at least ten years, It will probably only last me ten years. Might due to go to the Salvation Army = and buy him a stack of old belts. Louis Louis@nceca.net   Sam Vause wrote:   > Hmmm... Perhaps it IS appropriate as long as everyone understands it = will > fail in a similarly short term. I agree with you that a more long-term > solution would be desirable. > --sam > Sam Vause (Chandler, AZ) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jason Comet > Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 3:49 PM > Subject: Leather Coupler > > I had a problem yesterday with the blower. Turn it on and there was = only > enough wind for the 8' Open Diapason, then it sagged when there was a = full > chord played. > ... > I started the motor, then I noticed the coupling between the motor and = fan > shaft wasn't connected completely. > > That exact coupler was replaced 3 years ago by the same member of the > trustees. That was when the original LEATHER coupling went-up. He = replaced > it with a rubber coupling. > > Well, goes to show you WHY they used a LEATHER coupler instead of a = RUBBER > one.... The oil and other petro's in the grease/oil/etc... ate away at = the > rubber coupling. The leather one lasted from 1913-1998!!!!! > ... > He's going to replace the coupler AGAIN with a RUBBER one, which I don't > feel is appropriate, knowing the rubber/oil combination doesn't work. > > "Pipe Up and Be Heard!" > PipeChat: A discussion List for pipe/digital organs & related topics > HOMEPAGE : http://www.pipechat.org > List: mailto:pipechat@pipechat.org > Administration: mailto:admin@pipechat.org > Subscribe/Unsubscribe: mailto:requests@pipechat.org    
(back) Subject: Re: Leather Coupler From: "Tim Bovard" <tmbovard@arkansas.net> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:23:26 -0600   At 2/11/01 05:48 PM, Jason asks:   >The question: >Where can I get a LEATHER coupler for the Kinetic/Century Blower/Motor >unit??? > >He's going to replace the coupler AGAIN with a RUBBER one, which I don't >feel is appropriate, knowing the rubber/oil combination doesn't work.     Hi, Jason!   The leather used in those motor/blower couplers is pretty stout -- 1/4" or so thick, and quite stiff and sturdy. Such leather might be obtained from a shoe-repair shop perhaps, or a saddle/tack maker if you'd have such a thing locally. Tandy Leather (the arts and crafts leather folks) might also be able to supply the stuff -- they have a mail order catalog if you don't have a store locally.   I have had good luck in the past using small strips (like the original leather ones) cut from a piece of fire hose. Though not leather, the firehose material is likewise very stout, and the various layers of fiber weave in that material are quite strong. Unfortunately, I don't know offhand where one *gets* a piece of fire hose...(the piece I cut strips from has been laying around the shop forEVER!! <g>)   If you have no success finding *any* of these materials, another possibility might be small strips cut from the sidewall of an old auto tire. Again, like the firehose, the rubber contains various layers of woven material, which makes it substantially stronger than plain rubber (which I assume is what was used to replace the original leather).   Hope this helps a bit...!   Tim Bovard Little Rock AR      
(back) Subject: leather coupler repair From: "Cylocke" <Cylocke@mediaone.net> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:21:41 -0500   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_001E_01C0945F.DC961080 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Jason:   Go to yor nearest leather supply store and get some good stiff cow or =3D horse hide. take the old as a sample. Use an arc punch to locate the hosle for the = =3D screw using the original as a template and attach in the same way the =3D old one was. The use of rubber as a substitute is not a good idea....it = =3D is heat sensative and those old kinetics throw some good heat.   Good luck!   Best regards, Alan   ------=3D_NextPart_000_001E_01C0945F.DC961080 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D3D"text/html; charset=3D3Dwindows-1252" =3D http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3D3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#c8e0d8> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Jason:</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Go to yor nearest leather supply store and get some = =3D good stiff=3D20 cow or horse hide.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>take the old as a sample.&nbsp; Use an arc punch to = =3D locate the=3D20 hosle for the screw using the original as a template and attach in the =3D same way=3D20 the old one was.&nbsp; The use of rubber as a substitute is not a = good=3D20 idea....it is heat sensative and those old kinetics throw some good=3D20 heat.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Good luck!</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Best regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Alan</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_001E_01C0945F.DC961080--    
(back) Subject: Re: Leather Coupler From: <TRACKELECT@cs.com> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:23:08 EST   I have replaced these things with the same leather that is used for shoe soles. You will have to look around for a shoemaker's supply house. You = will need a bandsaw to cut it. The entire assembly can be replaced with a = "Lovejoy coupling". Lovejoy is the brand name. Several companies make these things. =   They can be had at industrial supply houses like Granger and = McMaster-Carr. They will be listed under power transmission.   Good luck:   Alan B  
(back) Subject: more advice...yikes From: "Cylocke" <Cylocke@mediaone.net> Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:33:57 -0500   This is a multi-part message in MIME format.   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0037_01C09461.9389E400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Greetings once again.   Regarding the conversion of the 16' DOD to a 32'Bourdon, it may be =3D necessary to relocate the pipecaps, which in effect is the same as =3D raising/lowering the languid in a metal pipe. You will be changing the = =3D point of onset of speech. Furthermore, if the caps are nicked, as in =3D some open woods, you may want to denick them. this will make the pipe =3D speek more efficiently. =3D20   Good luck! Best regards!   Alan   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0037_01C09461.9389E400 Content-Type: text/html; charset=3D"iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D3D"text/html; charset=3D3Dwindows-1252" =3D http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type> <META content=3D3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3D3DGENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D3D#c8e0d8> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Greetings once again.</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Regarding the conversion of the 16' DOD to a =3D 32'Bourdon, it=3D20 may be necessary to relocate the pipecaps, which in effect is the same =3D as=3D20 raising/lowering the languid in a metal pipe.&nbsp; You will be changing = =3D the=3D20 point of onset of speech.&nbsp; Furthermore, if the caps are nicked, as = =3D in some=3D20 open woods, you may want to denick them.&nbsp; this will make the pipe =3D speek=3D20 more efficiently.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Good luck!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Best regards!</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Alan</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>   ------=3D_NextPart_000_0037_01C09461.9389E400--